The Hanna Bralette

 It’s 2024, and Mama needs some support. 

First up to bat: Hanna by Studio Costura. I’ve been admiring this pattern for a couple years now, yet have resisted its siren sound until now. On her website, Karu has sew alongs for several of her patterns. I’ll follow along!

Step one: Materials. This bra takes lining with 50-60% stretch, and the blog says the lace should have 50% stretch. Clear elastic for the lace edge. Band Elastic allowance is for 10 mm width for both picot edge and the strap elastic, so that’s about 3/8th inch. I’m not sure if I have strap elastic that narrow. And the closure called for is 2 rows high.

 I have looked through my lace, and they are mostly closer to 10-25% stretch, except these five:

I don’t have enough of the lovely caramel lace. 

There is plenty of the red and light blue, they came from kits that had Madalynne patterns. The red came with 1/4 inch elastic and two partially used red spools of thread. The blue I used part of the kit and have 2 feet of 3/8 inch picot and plenty of 1/2 inch strap. 

The green with polka dots came with tulle lining. There is about 55 inches of 3/8 inch picot, but it’s more of a yellow-green. Oh, but where do we measure lace. It is only 15 cm wide at the lowest points, but 16 cm for the full width. Looks like piece B is the widest, and just fits.

The black lace is from the Bra Builder’s Tina kit for Lanai from 2023 Bra Bee.

I do have mesh, so lining acquired!

I dug around and found some Emerald Erin supplies. The 3/8 inch picot and 1/2 inch strap in Caramel should go nicely. But, what about a hook & eye? Found them, tucked into an Em.Erin undies kit.

Second step: sizing

Her blog chart is weird to me. My underbust measurement is currently 32-1/4 inch, which is about 82-83 cm. The chart says that 80 cm is a 36 band, and 85 cm is a 38 band.  I wear a 36 band (32 + 4 is the US norm)… so, should I actually be cutting a 38 inch band? Her pattern, her rules. 85 band, bust measures 102ish, 103? Easier to subtract 103-83=20. The blog post says every 12.5 cm difference is a cup size, so I’m in a B, 85B

Oh, wait; the pattern instructions say High Bust minus Full Bust, 94-83=11, wherein each 2.5 cm is a cup size. That puts me in a D, 85D. 

I am somewhere between 36C & 36D in RTW (neither fits, hence the sewing). So, should I split the difference and sew the 85C?

Looking closely at the pattern, all of a given cup size has the same BCD (Bottom Cup Depth) but all pattern pieces widen for each band size.

Step Three: Cutting

Oh, no.

I checked if the piece fit the other way, but the direction of stretch places it this way. What’s the seam allowance? If you cut out a D from this pattern, you need to have 16 cm between Lowest points of the lace! I guess I am switching to the C cup!

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Looks like I have room to spare for the closure.

I sewed up the D, and I feel undecided. Might be too big, definitely covers. It would make a comfy sleep bra. I’ll think about finishing this one. Next to cut out the B and see if I like it better.