Revisiting Strapless

I have ventured into the Esplanade and Marei strapless patterns, and touched on Symmes, but have yet to gain a good fit. I do have RTW strapless bras that fit me passably, so I know it is possible. My goal this time is to begin at center front and work my way out to correct the pattern to my physique. 

Looking at the fitting example, the wire that I find matches best is the Carmen style (found at Emerald Erin). The center front starts very parallel. If you look at the pattern drawing and examples of the Esplanade the wires are angled out right away. The angled wire spacing does not fit on my body. Phase one will be to remove a “dart” from the pattern center front.

In comparison to the Carmen, the Esplanade requires the BMS “Extra Long” wires - which are the Round wires through Emerald Erin. I’m not sure if you can see it in the picture, but if I set the center front close to vertical, then the underarm side of the wire  pokes out more. If I shift the underarm side to be more vertical, then the center front  requires the triangular spacing in the original pattern. Therefore, I aim to alter the pattern to accept the Carmen wire.

My next goal is to pull out the Rafale pattern I had been working on last year and comparing that adjusted pattern to the Esplanade. I am looking forward to improving the fit (for me) of this pattern!