Intermission: Black Beauty

 While awaiting the Ruby Fit Class, I decided to sew up a Black Beauty. 

I tried and tried a couple years ago, but I just couldn’t seem to get the size right, no matter how much Liz I watched Sew. But, now, I’ve learned more about how I feel the wire should fit, and that is my starting measurement. 

When I started this adventure, I thought I might use up to a size 46 underwire. I was over 175 pounds, and finding the side of my intramammary fold (IMF, the line around the breast) was impossible for me. As I’ve made more bras, I tried smaller wire sizes. This year, 2024, I’m using the smallest wire yet, even though I’m not that far from my starting weight. Things have shifted, or I’ve learned how it should feel on me.

Measurements?

Weight has been between 160-163 this week

Overbust: 35.5”

Bust: straight across/parallel to floor? 42”, but parallel to overbust, along top of bra: 40”

Underbust: 34”

Wire: 38

Starting size according to pattern: 34E-FF

Actual starting size: 36C. I should have used 34D, for a tighter band (these two use the same cup), but I also thought about using the same size as I fit in store, for comparison.

As this is a tester, I used whatever I had on hand. Emerald Erin often uses tulle for her bras, and I have some bra tulle, so I used that. The only adjustment was to the center gore. In this size, it’s a whole inch wide! I brought it in to 1/2 inch, and the bottom gore maybe took a little more away. This is too much off the bottom gore.  Next time I’m switching for the 34D gore, as it is only 3/4 inch wide. The wire feels good so far. The left cup was way too tight, and -wow- does it mound up!. The back band is one of those flat T-bands, so it’s trying to find its own path, plus it’s angled up, so it is riding a little high.

Take two! I added 3/8 inch across the horizontal seam at the apex notch. Now that the left feels good, I think the right feels tight. Maybe I should just go up to the next cup size, to the 34DD. The underwire seems a tiny bit long for the current cradle, so it could possibly fit into the next size up. The drawback is that my right side almost looks like it’s at the bust point, but maybe it’s just squished?

Now, it’s time to clear the sewing table, get in a stretch, and get ready for Ruby!