Longline Mockup

 I just measure into the bottom end of LilyPaDesigns’ DD size because of my underwire size (the cups will need to be adjusted). She came out with the Marei strapless recently, so I made a mock up of the band to test the size and techniques used in size 4.0”  34 band.

In the pattern, the back band calls for 50% stretch, but I used the 25% that I have and used the just larger than my size band. Because my underbust is an odd number, I can use either above or below, depending on the firmness I desire. Personally, I find the elastics dictate more about the discomfort if the stretch percentage is altered. I used the 3/4 inch elastic from the pattern designer’s site to minimize issues there.

My center spacing is not quite as wide as the pattern dictates. It could be just the angle that I need is straighter, I did remove 1/16 inch from the top of the cradle, but I’m thinking that I may try to add that back since I changed the cup angle, hopefully the right amount! Because I straightened the gore, the bottom edges of the center gore lost 1/2 inch per side, which I added back on the seam between the center gore and side cradle. My mum-tum goes out between my flared ribs, so that is where I need the space.

So far, I think the changes are okay. I feel the band is too loose, though, and will deal with that in time. First, though, I think that I need to lengthen the band height, to go down to my waist. It is hitting currently on my flared ribs. My mock up does not yet have boning, and it rolls right up to regular band width. If I add three inches to place the bottom band around the bottom of my ribcage instead of across the widest part. I’ll have to fit the cups before I decide on this.