Moving the BCD Bust Point

 I have tried most of the methods for adjusting the bottom cup depth (BCD) on bra patterns. Most of the methods seem to lean into removing a dart of fabric. However, if you do that, then you are removing some of the volume. What happens if you need that volume, you just need it somewhere else?

Today, I decided to try a different method. If you have looked at ways to move the apex, or bust point, in towards center or out away from center, you’ll have seen a different method applied. The pattern will be sliced off and the prominent area slid over, and then the seams are “trued” or smoothed out in the new place. Let’s do that, but on the vertical seam where the BCD’s bust point is.

Here’s the bra pattern I’m testing this on. The BCD is 4 inches. When measuring up from the seam to the black line, that is four inches.

So, let’s mark a line from the inner top corner to the inner bottom corner of both sides of this seam, and mark a line about 1/2 inch (for this example) from where the cross grain line (or Direction of stretch) is.

Next, cut the long line and slide the bust point down.

Last, we true up the seams and make a test cup!

Make sure to maintain the seam allowance points. We are shortening the BCD, and the bust point is lowering. In this instance, though, we have not moved the seam along the upper edge between the lower and upper cups. The length here is preserved. For a person with upper cup fullness, this allows the cup to still have room. After the test cup is sewn up and tried, then any changes to this seam can be considered.