Bra Nerds Unite!

 For the month of September, a group from the (Bra Bee) Hive has agreed to use the same pattern so we can compare the fit and changes needed to fit the pattern to ourselves. The pattern chosen this month is the Maya Bra by AFI Atelier. This pattern has been available, at no cost, for about nine years now!

Inputting my measurements in the AFI calculator spit  out a size of 85C/38C. I measured the pattern, had a laugh and immediately printed out the next size. The width of the cup would just not have enough space in that size.

I sewed up the 85D, straight from the pattern. I have Carmen wires, so I tried the size 40, as they look close to the right length for the wireline, and they seem more able to spring open. 

First version, Maya Bra 38D, Carmen 40 (similar size to BMS 42L) 

*Made to pattern* no adjustments at all 

Gore: Wide, sitting on breast tissue.

Band: Bottom band tight, upper band loose: need a rib flare adjustment to raise it a touch and give me breathing room.

Cups: feel too small, wire is sitting on outer breast tissue; which makes me unsure if the wire is too small.

Straps: set wide in front, but at a good angle in back, only wearing it a while will tell if they stay up or not.

Synopsis: if this was the first bra I had sewn, I would have thought it fit and been initially happy, but had no clue how to make it comfortable!

I decided to cut and sew right into this first version. First, the gore. I had sewn the last inch or so of the channeling in with a basting thread that I could remove to get the channeling out of the way.  I sewed 1/8-inch from the fold to remove 1/4-inch from the gore, this alleviated the wire sitting on my tissue. 

I plan to alter the band to give more room under the bust, but first I have to know how much. I cut into the side cradle, widened the bottom band by a thumb’s width, then sewed a patch of SCL (sheer cup lining, also called marquisette). I figured that would give me room to breathe, and if I added enough, make the looseness equal to the top band and then I could reduce the back band evenly. It didn’t quite work that way. I still need to take some out of the upper band, but now the bottom band feels better. This tells me to go up a band size on the next iteration (^/v goes together, up in band and down in cup size).

I made one other change in this first Maya attempt. I switched the underwires. I have some of each of the wires from Emerald Erin, and I switched the  Carmen for the Round 42 wires. The Carmen are rounder and the tops pinch in just slightly. The Round wires are straighter at the ends, but are long like strapless wires. The pressure on the sides of my breasts was mostly relieved. I think the larger side cup can still use a smidgeon of room through the cross cup. 

Last note, the underwire is too long for the wireline in this size. I thought it would be okay for a trial run, but it is sticking out almost a quarter inch! I’ll need to alter the pattern for that.