Mésange Bra

 Last night I sewed up the Hari Ito Mésange Bra in size 38C. I have a pack from B,Wear that was one of the first kits I had purchased there, and this just called for it. It does seem a little silly to sew a test bra out of a kit, but it’s been in stash for ages, and the findings were pilfered for some other make.

I had sewn a practice bra ages ago, but it did not fit, was just white powernet and maybe marquisette for the frame. For this one, I followed each instruction almost to the letter - I should have trimmed the dart seam, but I did want to know where it ends. But, the band was tight! I think the power net is firm instead of regular strength, and for me that requires a longer band. Are the cups too big? 

Take two! This morning, I sewed up the 40A using the same kit. But, now I’m half spilling. Let’s figure this out!

The most obvious issue here is the darts are just way out there causing east-westing to no end. Let’s look at their display model and see what’s going on. Mésange on Hari Ito

The bra is only displayed on a mannequin. It would be interesting to see what they expect it to look like on a human.

Their band looks differently shaped than mine at center front. The super rounded under wire area is practically smooth, center front bridge is evenly joined… I have no reason to keep this bridge shaping that’s been added on my size, so maybe I’ll fill in the gap. Others may need that shaping, so it’s a nice option.

Ah ha! The side view gives me a clue as to what is happening. The wires look tilted back and end somewhat low. It looks similar on the mannequin I made, but on my body, the wires follow the inframammary fold and sit more upright. Because of this, the bra cups are rotated further up, and I’m spilling more than the pattern is supposed to. 

And, they have a pattern for Extra Cups for this pattern. These are in stable fabric instead of stretch. In those pictures, the dart looks like it is set nearly vertical. I may try them next to see.

How should I progress? First, the band needs love to fit me. The bottom of the band has scrunchy fabric, so I need to raise that edge to remove the excess. Fill in the lower front bridge some because I don’t have roundness on my torso right there. 

Then, those cups. I think the dart needs to be rotated. It seems to end at the right area, but the angle puts it in an area that doesn’t need the space (the dart is creating a shaped area). I want that shaping to be more under and less on the side. I think only an half to one inch shift of the dart should work. 

I’m looking forward to working on this some more. It’s a really cute pattern!

Jordy Bralette

 Last fall (beginning of the school year), the Hive had a class for the Jordy Bralette. I had tried it before and the size I was sized into seemed off. I decided to try the pattern again today. I haven’t finished it yet, but it looks pretty.

I looked around for a kit, but this one is missing its rings and sliders. I’ll use up the end of the green lace to test the Jordy!

My under bust (ribcage) measurement varies, today it was close to 34 inches. My bust measurement was between 41 to 42 inches, depending on how I took it. The pattern puts me into size 34F.

I did not stretch the elastics, and I feel this was a mistake. The elastic is on top of the fabric, the feed dogs of a sewing machine pull the fabric through, and the elastic is on top against the foot. Sometimes the top is pulled somewhat naturally, but this is not as useful with the thick plush elastic. I need to just barely stretch it for this pattern to help it snug up against my outer fullness. 

I’m also wondering about the band elastic. It will stretch around my torso, but the cups are stable. If the stable cup bottom is being pulled open, flat, then it will more likely smoosh the bust. I may need to gather the bottom of the cups a bit, then sew them in place.

The cups are very wide, and that’s okay, even though they have little shaping for my shape body. This is fine, it probably works well as is for other busts! For me, the outer cup side is just past my bust, so that the outer edge is a touch loose. I need to basically take a dart out. Instead of pinching out fabric, I raised the elastic to cover a full inch on the outside corner, instead of an half an inch.

For the center front, I started by overlapping the cups. This brings the cup seam closer to my fullest part. Next, I tucked the center front another 1/4 inch down into the band. 

I may tack on the straps and pin this together again soon. I’m happy with how much I was able to do today.

Bra Nerds Unite!

 For the month of September, a group from the (Bra Bee) Hive has agreed to use the same pattern so we can compare the fit and changes needed to fit the pattern to ourselves. The pattern chosen this month is the Maya Bra by AFI Atelier. This pattern has been available, at no cost, for about nine years now!

Inputting my measurements in the AFI calculator spit  out a size of 85C/38C. I measured the pattern, had a laugh and immediately printed out the next size. The width of the cup would just not have enough space in that size.

I sewed up the 85D, straight from the pattern. I have Carmen wires, so I tried the size 40, as they look close to the right length for the wireline, and they seem more able to spring open. 

First version, Maya Bra 38D, Carmen 40 (similar size to BMS 42L) 

*Made to pattern* no adjustments at all 

Gore: Wide, sitting on breast tissue.

Band: Bottom band tight, upper band loose: need a rib flare adjustment to raise it a touch and give me breathing room.

Cups: feel too small, wire is sitting on outer breast tissue; which makes me unsure if the wire is too small.

Straps: set wide in front, but at a good angle in back, only wearing it a while will tell if they stay up or not.

Synopsis: if this was the first bra I had sewn, I would have thought it fit and been initially happy, but had no clue how to make it comfortable!

I decided to cut and sew right into this first version. First, the gore. I had sewn the last inch or so of the channeling in with a basting thread that I could remove to get the channeling out of the way.  I sewed 1/8-inch from the fold to remove 1/4-inch from the gore, this alleviated the wire sitting on my tissue. 

I plan to alter the band to give more room under the bust, but first I have to know how much. I cut into the side cradle, widened the bottom band by a thumb’s width, then sewed a patch of SCL (sheer cup lining, also called marquisette). I figured that would give me room to breathe, and if I added enough, make the looseness equal to the top band and then I could reduce the back band evenly. It didn’t quite work that way. I still need to take some out of the upper band, but now the bottom band feels better. This tells me to go up a band size on the next iteration (^/v goes together, up in band and down in cup size).

I made one other change in this first Maya attempt. I switched the underwires. I have some of each of the wires from Emerald Erin, and I switched the  Carmen for the Round 42 wires. The Carmen are rounder and the tops pinch in just slightly. The Round wires are straighter at the ends, but are long like strapless wires. The pressure on the sides of my breasts was mostly relieved. I think the larger side cup can still use a smidgeon of room through the cross cup. 

Last note, the underwire is too long for the wireline in this size. I thought it would be okay for a trial run, but it is sticking out almost a quarter inch! I’ll need to alter the pattern for that.

First Completed-ish Gemini

 

This bra is so pretty! It’s not a perfect fit, but with a couple alterations I’ll wear it anyway.

The Midnight Bloom Lace Bra Kit from Bra Builders is gorgeous! And sold out at the time of this blog post. I had ordered it with the scalloped straps to try them out. They are cute, but I preferred using the 3/8-inch (10 mm?) findings because they are thinner -less plush- than the regular 1/2-inch (12 mm?) straps.

Measurements this week? 1. Upper Bust: 35”?, 2. Full Bust: 39”, 3. Breast Spacing: where exactly? One finger? The bra cradle fit well. 4. Under Bust: 32-1/2”, 

I had made a mock-up of the band for this bra without the overlay in the suggested size for my wires (34D), which is a cup size or two smaller than I measured into (34F, which I rarely fit). No problem with this pattern, the cups are in the overlay which only attaches to the side seams and straps, and can be chosen separately from the band.

For this one, I sister-sized up to the 36C, same wire, larger band. It turned out that I should have used a different overlay as I missed the info in the booklet that shared the BCD of the model this was based on. My BCD is 3.75-inches on a good day. The model was in a sister size of the one that I made (32E), and has a 4.5-inch BCD. That’s an half inch larger than PUG uses for that bra size! Oops. I don’t mind a trial bra being a little loose, but the dart went high enough to pucker in weird places. 

Also, the width of the overlay grows with each band size. I’m thinking that sizing up the band, but sizing down the overlay would have suited me better. The 36C band seemed okay, I’ll have to make minor alterations, then wear it all day to be sure. The 36C Overlay was too wide and the darts too high. I can maybe try the 34C Overlay, maybe even the 32D or C? I have to measure the darts and determine the BCDs of the different sizes. 

When I had the frame and overlay together, I basted on the straps to measure how long to make them, which is when I realized the size discrepancy. I got to play with the cup and strap placement to determine a good placement for the best fit. 

I might just open the side seams and narrow the overlay, or move the lower cup elastic for a slightly better fit. I like the bra, definitely looking forward to getting the fit down pat.

The band nearly fits out of the package. I’ll take that win!

Band Blunder

 I moved down, as suggested, from 32E to 32D. Suddenly, the band does not fit. Is it the elastic? I need to check it against the other band still to verify, but I later made another version and had the same larger band issue. This may be why Liz Sews also preferred a smaller band in her videos. I picked out the stitches for the bottom band, but still need to shorten the back band. I did try it on as best as possible, and it doesn’t fit me quite right.

I did point out to Ruhee of Ruby’s patterns Sunday during a fitting call that I had noticed a 2-inch difference between the 34 and 32 back bands of the bra, was it E or F? There should be at most an inch per side (half of the two inch difference between sizes). I received an update July 31, 2023, so I’m pretty sure she fixed that. 

So, I remembered that LilypaDesigns has a projection increase blog post. The newest version that I mentioned has that increase in it. I moved the bottom of the center front seam of the 32D by 1/4 inch per side (half inch total), smoothing it to the notch. Instead of taking the same amount out of the cradle (bowls, Ruhee calls them), and figuring all that out, I switched out both band pieces for the 32C bra. As mentioned, the band was still oddly too loose, but the cups were a bit saggy? I still need to pinch out some excess fabric in the outer cup…

Hellebore, & a Sewing Bee

 This weekend is the Beginner Bra Bee. I’m still unsure what I should do yo get the Sahaara bralette to fit me. Shall I just keep going down in size? Are the alterations I tRied good? I dunno. I’d like to have a bra that actually fits.

One of the Instagram interviews recently suggested that panties are a good thing to work on if the bra seems overwhelming. So, I sewed up view A of the Hellebore Hi-cut ppattern. Is the front too low? The back is above my waist. How is it supposed to fit? Did I just find another rabbit hole to chase down?

I could work on my stitching.  The lace rolled in places. The seams are funky. But, they are pretty.

Jalie 4344, first try

 This one is for the cycling people, and I’m not talking bicycles.

Jalie 4344 is a Period Underpants pattern. I made it up in size Y. The absorbent area is the triple thickness because I had planned to have it done in time for my heavy flow day(s). Surprise, I was busy and didn’t get the waistband on in time. I’ll try it out on a regular flow or overnight and hope for the best. 

The pant is made from bamboo jersey, there’s a wicking lining, feels like polyester, and the core is made from Zorb or something similar. This kit came from BraBuilders for the Bra Sewing Bee. They are planning a class on Period Underwear. The lining fabric in the kit is not cut long enough for the Jalie pattern, so make sure to order the proper size. 

I have seen other period pants makers suggest using bamboo as the lining because it may have wicking properties, but if you do, don’t use the same color as the outside of the pants! You don’t want to accidentally wear them inside out.

Thoughts from just sewing it up? Three layers may be too thick, the edges of the crotch gusset look like they’re pulling something fierce. I took the time to pre wash the fabrics, so after my run, I’ll try these on.

Changes? I sewed FOE to the top edge instead of adding the self-fabric waistband or sewing on an elastic or lace waistband and cutting down the difference behind it. I generally have to make changes to a pattern for my body shape, but just sewed this straight to try it out.

Testing fit: The front rides about 2 inches lower than the back. The back is nearly at my natural waist. The built in pad (gusset) is not as far forward as I would wear one, and the back side of it is thick feeling. I expect if I shift the gusset forward a couple inches, the padding will ride at a more comfortable place.

Note to self: too much padding. Remember diapers back in the day? Better to make it able to dry in a reasonable time, and add an extra pad inside than deal with things that won’t dry and therefore have issues.one to two max layers in the future.

Sahaara the Third

 

Another longline, but this time with FOE for the bottom edge. It does roll up a bit, but we’ll let it be a trial run. I still have the second bra elastics kit; I had requested the add-on. I have enough back band fabric for 2-3 more goes with this color tulle, so I decided on using other strap elastic and hardware for this attempt. I have some hook and loop tape, so the  back closure is four high. It’s not dyed, nor are the straps, do you think that if I soak these together, excess dye may bleed from the fabric to the undyed closure? Doubt it, but ya never know.

Pattern alterations (future me let’s you know that I did this the hard way): the center point of Watson fit me pretty well last time I made it, so I printed out the largest cradle and played with the Sahaara. I used the center front shape and height (matching the center cradle curve), and that brought the center front down at least an inch, plus gave it a steeper curve because there just isn’t as much space there as the Sahaara desires me to have. Following the Rubies video, that meant that I should remove as much from the center cup. I also removed 1/2” from the BCD.

How’s the fit? The band is a touch tighter because my hook & loop is only 2 columns wide - the 3 high premade ones were also 3 wide. The cups don’t fit, the previous bra felt better and didn’t cut across tissue as much. Too many changes at once. It’s hard to afford fitting bra patterns. This one is not going to be called wearable. 

Does it fit me like a desert?

 Bra Bee is coming up, and the beginner bee uses the Sahaara pattern (not Sahara, like a desert). 

Measure: 40” bust, 32” underbust, but 33” ribcage just below (hey, learning, I’ve got a bit of rib flare). That puts me in a 32G. What? I look, and that’s actually the next pattern… I have the smaller sizes. Okay, sister sizing? I’ll just make 34F. (Note: Sister sizing is NOT the same on this pattern, the cups all have the same name while the band changes, not both changing!)

Sewed it up, tried it on. BraBuilder’s Sunshine is super bright! Too big. Like band is baggy big, can’t even about the cups with the baggy band. Weird. 

Let’s cut it out again. Wait, the printing page shows that ALL F cups are the same pieces, same volume… so, I’ll go to 32E?

 Oops, I forgot to fold up the band on the 32E, so I’m trying a longline. But, there isn’t enough fabric now to cut out all the pieces. What to do? I search for scraps from another bra that used this fabric: none. I look through my kits for a match: not really. I go to Etsy to clear my head, and take a minute to review my orders. That takes me back through everything, and I happen across some yellow bra tulle: jackpot!

The one thing I didn’t do is stabilize the edges. The twill tape in the kit is very wide! If I fold it over the edge, then sew the fold over elastic (FOE), that would make the edge very thick. Isn’t twill tape a fabric weave, so if I cut it in half , it could fray? Next time, I may try it, and put the cut edge out to be in the fold of the FOE.

How’s it fit? Well, better than most bras? The triangle in the frame is too wide. The cup seam may only be crossing my apex because the center is well away from my sternum. The outer edge of the cradle is far back - I watched their alterations video, though, so does that get pulled into place when I reduce the BCD through “moon darts”? The top of the cup is wide and baggy (same fix?). The straps are really uncomfortable, but maybe I just need more elastic because of the length of the longline? It seemed really tight, but after wearing a while, it relaxed or I adjusted.

I was thinking of adding some to the back band, but then I printed out the 34E band and found that it is TWO inches wider than the 32E… um, shouldn’t that be ONE inch per side to increase two inches across a bra band? And less than that because of stretch percentages? This bra has me a touch confused.

Alright, time to try actual fit adjustments. If I can get the center to fit where it ought, will I need to change a cup size?

(Future self note: This 32E is comfortable enough that I’ve been wearing it. Just need to adjust straps inward for my narrow shoulders)

The First One I ever Bought

 Years ago, I became interested in sewing my underthings. I considered purchasing a bra pattern to try. Then, we moved house, and I completely forgot. I’ve seen this pattern online, waiting to be noticed back there, to get picked up... Then, in 2018, I purchased it.

I didn't have any practice, skill, or teacher. There weren't many videos yet on bra sewing and fitting. I picked up a different pattern and tried it, and another...

Finally, frustrated with the fit I have been getting. Knowing there’s a lot of work ahead to get a fitting bra, I pick up my copy of Élan #645. Now, this pattern is in an envelope, the pattern pieces were not in the computer to be printed, but were on an ancient thin substance like tissue paper. Delicate, tear-able; I photo copied the suggested size: 36D. 

I do admit that I was taken aback at how tall the bridge looked, but I was also surprised that the angle of the cup placement seemed similar to what I try to achieve. Wire spring seems minimal, if at all there.

I hesitated after cutting the back band in powermesh and front pieces out in bra tulle (the non-stretchy type used for bridges). The thought of a "fitting band" came to mind, and I set aside the cups. I sewed the cradle to the wings (back band), and applied the channeling and elastic. I only used enough strap elastic to hold a ring, and added hooks and eyes in the back. 

First fitting: the bottom of the band is tight, the top of the back band is flopping. But, the cradle! The bridge is a mere 1/8th inch onto my breast, otherwise seemingly perfect! I sliced off 1/16th inch from the center of the cradle to remove that 1/8th inch in total.

Should I go up in size? I copy out the 38 band size. But! There is not a cradle that matches the first one for this band... There is a gap between C & D. I copy out size 40 band. The C is similar to the 36 band’s D. This is the first bra pattern I have seen with store-bra style sizing rather than the exact sister sizing of other pattern makers. My size 40 wire should be matching the 40B, not 40C... Mayhaps this is the wire spring?

There’s something else, though. The 40 band has an added wedge to separate the cups more. They have not graded up sizes, they drafted for different placement. I check the cups, they, too, are shaped different from the smaller band. I may try each later to see if one style works with less changes to fit me.

I took a stab at the 40 band, removing the wedge and adding that to the back band (drew a line from B at the bottom to C at the top to add the 1/4 inch). Also, removed an inch from the back band to make it closer to the 38 band size. This didn’t work as well as the size 36 band I had used first. I set it aside and returned to the 36 band. 

Adding 3/4 inch to the whole back was too much, and the upper back flopped more. Hubs tried to reassure me that the strap alone being added will fix it, even though he said that the first time. 

Instead, I started again with the 36 band, added 1/2 Inch along the band, removed 3/4 inch along the upper edge, and sewed yet another fitting band. Holy grails, Batman! I have a nearly wearable bra band! 

Tune in next time to find out if a cup pattern can actually fit my short, wide, oval mammary holders.

Same bra time!

Same bra channel!

Tiger Sweater

 

Mister E asked for a tiger sweater, as he likes the nickname his Daddy bestowed upon him. I started it after finishing MissE’s Penguin sweater in December, but had many breaks.

 Knit from the free Seal Line sweater pattern, with a tiger motif duplicate stitched on the front. Notes on my Ravelry.

 Is it just me? I start a project, get past a few hiccups, then come to a long swath of tedious work and come to a mental wall. As I often start several projects at once,  I’m trying to finish a project before starting a new one. Even better if I get an old work in progress (WIP) done before starting something!

Comparing Plunge Patterns

 I realized that the Lansdowne by Orange Lingerie is at least a plunge style bra, if not a push-up, similar to the Push-up by Merckwaerdigh. I went ahead and purchased it this week and sewed a first go of it along with a Push-up. I moved up one size in the Push-up, and made the size with the closest sized lower cup piece from the Lansdowne pattern: 85B vs. 34B. (Note: I could/should have made the 36A, so that I have room to shorten the band because my ribcage size is an odd number in inches, between the 34 and 36.)

Comparison photo: I sewed the band on upside down! Other than that, you can see that the shape of the Lansdowne (top, in picture) follows the natural curve, and looks more like a regular day bra that is just meant to smooth and hold. The Push-up, on the other hand, compresses the outer/lower breast, causing it to be pushed to the middle. I’ve put the same size wire in the left (right in picture) cup of each bra, leaving the right cup (left in pic) free to show the difference the pattern lines make, and that the wire supports. See how flat the lower cup is on the Push-up? That’s what I need to get the girls in front of me.

I had made the Push-up in the suggested size the first time, the XO bra for Valentines. This time, I went up a size. This pattern has a set band that gets adjusted to size for the band to fit, and the cups are all B cups that use “sister sizing” to differentiate them. (Lying sizes, if I go online to a famous company, my sister sizes are 34D and 36B!)

The wire I had used the first time I sewed Push-up doesn’t really fit me: it’s a rocker style, but it was short enough to fit in the underwire channel. This time, I left the channel ends open and tried the wire that fits me best. The wires stick out both ends.

For the Lansdowne, I used the exact same fabrics. I think if I had stretch lace, it may have nearly fit me. I do think I need to go up a size, though.

I think I may not be measuring myself right, so I turned to my dear hubs. He measured me as best he could, at all the funny angles the best bra calculator shows. I told him to measure, write and just give me the numbers after and he obliged, shooing my prying eyes. His measurements are different than mine.

Upper bust: 36”

Full bust 39” average of ways to measure

Band/ribcage: 31” fully exhaled

BCD: Right:3”, Left: 3.25” (which place me at 34B, and 36B, respectively)

Well, he does get different measurements than I do. The calculator suggests 34DD, UK or US sizes.

Neither bra that I made today fit me. and that’s okay. I’ll go another size up. I’ll try them all until I get a fitting band and cup, or close to it. 

X’s and O’s

 With little experience sewing knits, I wanted to make some underthings. They cover a smaller area, and seem somewhat forgiving. I, of course, have fit issue#, but hubs will happily wear whatever is close. I say that in jest, but he says that he feels loved when I make him things, and he happily wears some experiments in fit.

For example, to try out the Pin-Up Girls Men’s Underwear Pattern, I cut up a T-shirt that he had said had too many holes to wear again. I had to sew the sleeves together to have just enough fabric length to get the front gusset pieces. So there is an extra seam across the front. Even so, and probably because I flatfelled the seams as best I could, he was happy with the experiment.

That pattern has two versions, described on the website: “ Lillebror features a solid fabric back with forward side seams and a shapely front, while Michael has the detailing in the back seam and a traditional front panel. Both views feature over-the-top access and an optional support sling ” 

The “feature” of over the top access is just an option. If you/your recipient prefers it, pattern pieces are included for the fly option as well. Not all men use the fly, so they have the solid piece as well. Note: The non-fly option is still doubled layered. It takes less time to sew the no-fly version, and it makes sense to include both options in a men’s underwear pattern.Well done!

I went on with my Valentine’s Day sewing by cutting out the pattern pieces for three more items: another Michael, an Altitude Thong, and a Push-up style bra.

I had purchased a Sweetheart Bundle from Bra-makers Supply of Valentine fabric and waistband and leg elastics. I used the black elastic included on the t+shirt boxers earlier. But, I had also ordered the Love waistband elastic from Laceandtrims. That turned out fantastic with the XO fabric from the kit.

For me, I started with the Altitude Thong, a downloadable pattern by Sophie Hines. I am still working out my size. I’m between Medium and Large. I think I need the front pattern height of the small or medium -the large has bunches of extra fabric on my belly- coupled with the back pattern length of the large.

I have always had issues with certain underwear styles riding weird. Usually the front bunches, and the coverage in the back is awkward  I gave up at one point and settled on bikini underwear only because of the low front rise that can’t creep down further. But, now that I am “middle aged,” I find I want a higher front expanse to cover my stretch marks. I have been getting hipsters, but then I can have Visible Panty Line (VPL) across my belly in certain dresses, and my rear in my jeans. Altitude Thong to the rescue. I didn’t like thongs before this, just uncomfortable. With this higher waistband, it sits better and doesn’t ride strangely. Also, I decided to line the front and back with powermesh. This is the same fabric as the back band of a bra. It should help smooth out any lumps and bumps, plus keep the soft bamboo rayon from stretching out.

On to the matched set: I wanted to get this bra pattern that comes with multiple length options, but Merckwaerdigh has stopped shipping physical items to the U.S. They are still selling some PDF patterns online, so this was the only option to try this Pushup pattern. I definitely wanted to try this bra style, and this is currently the only push-up pattern that I have found (Boobytrap’s Plunge bra comes close).

With this being the first bra I made from this pattern, it’s more of a fit experiment (also called a toile or muslin, named after the type of fabric traditionally used for fittings). I have yet to be able to just sew up a bra pattern and have it fit straight from suggested size. First, the pattern says to measure the underbust line, 81 cm puts me in the 80 band. Then measure around the full bust, preferably in a fitted bra, 95 cm. The difference is the cup size: B.  I decided to sew up the 80B as is, even though a 36 band (the U.S. equivalent) is usually too loose, and the cup would likely be too small (36B is 34C, and I tend towards 34D or 36C, with a larger wire). This particular bra does not take up much fabric. 

Sure enough, the band rode up in the back and the left cup was too small. The style, though, was pretty spot on! Even with the wrong wires in it (I had some rocker wires at hand instead of the plunge wires), this shape cup pulled the girls up a bit. I need to narrow the bridge, as usual, and I am looking forward to making it again!

I hope you had an enjoyable Sunday with someone or doing something that you love!

Dart Trap

 Why is this dart so big? 

The Dart Bra by Booby Traps was one of my first bra pattern  purchases. I have printed it out several times, but not cut and sewn the actual garment.

 The patterns from most companies that sell bra patterns seem to have a formula wherein the band is the starting point, and the difference between the band and the cup determines the name of the cup size. For each band size, the A cup is a different size. As the band gets larger, the A cup gets proportionately larger. Because of this, they have a technique in the bra industry called “sister sizing.” The sister cup of a 40A in the 36 band is called B. On the 36 band, it’s called C, and on the 34 band, it’s called D. The cups are literally the same pattern.  Now, in ready to wear (RTW), they may actually shorten or give more height to the “extreme” ends of the spectrum, but in bra pattern sewing, I can trace the 34D to get a perfect 38A cup.

The Booby Traps pattern is different. It measures and suggests sizing in a similar way, but there are only 5 cup sizes for the 6 band sizes. The cups are labeled B, C, D, DD, E. The bands are labeled like clothing sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18. The band sizes approximate others size wise. I usually wear a 34D in RTW bras in the U.S. I can wear a 36C, that’s where many bra patterns place me, and it often works fine when I sew my own (heavier duty powermesh for the back helps it stay in place), but RTW bras in that size often slide out of place. 

Booby Traps places me in a 14B, which is more like 36B. It can’t hurt much to just sew it up, maybe foreign sizes are different. My Merckwaerdigh pattern also sizes me to 80B (I hope to sew that one up soon!), so I cut and sewed some of Mom’s lace.

I marked on the pattern piece a shorter dart along the wire line. When I measured it, I realized that the width just wouldn’t work. I do want to check how the pattern fits, though, so I made it exactly. I have a short Bottom Cup Depth (BCD), that’s the length from the wire to the bust point. The four inch dart ran well past my peak and left wrinkled empty fabric an inch below the upper edge, which dug in a bit. I think I need to go up a cup size, and follow my instinct to shorten the dart.

Worker Bee

 I have hives of honeybees most years happily buzzing through the summer. It made sense to have fun and pick up the Black Beauty Bees bra kit from Emerald Erin. At the time, they only had latte, but it looks like bees on black tulle may be back in stock.

 The kit comes with stable tulle, the kind you use for the bridge, and to keep things up. The bees are on cup tulle, which is stretchy across and stable along the grain. I sewed up the pattern as written, but the power bars were at a strange angle and my bees fabric bagged out along the cross seam. I took out the cups.

I have altered one copy of the pattern to vertical seams. I sewed up a new pair of cups. I didn’t add the power bars back in, and found that the seam is actually at least an half inch forward of my bust point. The cups are a touch loose, too. Without the power bars, I simply looped the fold over elastic (FOE) through a ring and put the adjusters in the front of the bra. 

I need to adjust the pattern some more, it’s nearly fitting. 

Spring, Angles, Play

 While trying the band of the Porcelynne bra, I did find a comfort factor that has been missing with home sewn bras. The wire tips were pressing into my sternum, and I took a pinch of the base of the bridge and used a safety pin to hold it closer together. What a difference! I know. Wires fit to my “inframammary” line (the curve of my breasts), but the bra was forcing the wire to sit in the wrong position against me.

Yo. And I mean that in the most solid, I grew up in So Cal during the LA riots, gangsta that this little housewife can manage. And I’ll throw in a -Dude - for good measure.

My bra band fits. I took that tiny dart (1/4” per side!) and moved it to the back band to maintain the circumference. And I wore that until I nearly fell asleep in it. I do like to not sleep in wires, let  alone bras. I like to feel free at night.

Next bra I made up is the vertical seamed Black Beauty (LizSews on YouTube has a tutorial for this). I tried a Gothic Arch for the first time, but it didn’t turn out great. It’s my first, the cups need a touch of finessing, yet it’s wearable. 

Check that bridge! I have. Wires on top of each other, which may be a smidge too close, but it feels fine. This is the last of my Mom’s white shell lace. Blush pink for the cradle, and the back is a peachy color powermesh. 

Have you found a fit inspiration that suddenly just made things fit better?

Maybe No Wire

 Am I wrong to want a little lift? Maybe wires just don’t fit me? I can wear some from the store, my favorites are frameless ones with really low centers. Let’s turn to wireless bras, also called soft cups or lounge bras.

I ordered the much blogged about Watson Bra pattern. I think I missed the size I need just a little. I made the 34D instead of the 36D. (Note: I checked, I made a 36C the first time.) The band is just a little tight (Note: probably because I lined it with stable fabric in the front), and the right cup is nearly correct, a little loose at the underarm. The left cup could use more side coverage. (Planning to print out the 38C band for extra breathing space and to fit that bigger cup; 38C = 36D.)

I used all stash material: purple stretch velvet from Mom’s stash (might have been a costume when my nephew was younger), black cherry elastics picked from an earlier attempt at a bra, stable mesh for the front band, the slightly stretchy cup lining mesh for the cups, and firm powernet to line the back band. 

Minor fitting issues aside, I very happily wore this for 24 hours when I finished sewing it. Will have to adjust and make again!