Mésange Bra

 Last night I sewed up the Hari Ito Mésange Bra in size 38C. I have a pack from B,Wear that was one of the first kits I had purchased there, and this just called for it. It does seem a little silly to sew a test bra out of a kit, but it’s been in stash for ages, and the findings were pilfered for some other make.

I had sewn a practice bra ages ago, but it did not fit, was just white powernet and maybe marquisette for the frame. For this one, I followed each instruction almost to the letter - I should have trimmed the dart seam, but I did want to know where it ends. But, the band was tight! I think the power net is firm instead of regular strength, and for me that requires a longer band. Are the cups too big? 

Take two! This morning, I sewed up the 40A using the same kit. But, now I’m half spilling. Let’s figure this out!

The most obvious issue here is the darts are just way out there causing east-westing to no end. Let’s look at their display model and see what’s going on. Mésange on Hari Ito

The bra is only displayed on a mannequin. It would be interesting to see what they expect it to look like on a human.

Their band looks differently shaped than mine at center front. The super rounded under wire area is practically smooth, center front is evenly joined… I have no reason to keep this shaping that’s been added on this size, so maybe I’ll fill in the gap. Others may need that shaping, so it’s a nice option.

Ah ha! The side view gives me a clue as to what is happening. The wires look tilted back and end somewhat low. It looks similar on the mannequin I made, but on my body, the wires follow the inframammary fold and sit more upright. Because of this, the bra cups are rotated further up, and I’m spilling more than the pattern is supposed to. 

And, they have a pattern for Extra Cups for this pattern. These are in stable fabric instead of stretch. In those pictures, the dart looks like it is set nearly vertical. I may try them next to see.

How should I progress? First, the band needs love to fit me. The bottom of the band has scrunchy fabric, so I need to raise that edge to remove the excess. Fill in the front some because I don’t have roundness on my torso right there. 

Then, those cups. I think the dart needs to be rotated. It seems to end at the right area, but the angle puts it in an area that doesn’t need the space (the dart is creating a shaped area). I want that shaping to be more under and less on the side. I think only an half to one inch shift of the dart should work. 

I’m looking forward to working on this some more. It’s a really cute pattern!