Altering the Angle of the Back Band

 The angle that the back wing comes off the front frame is often quite down-sloping. I’m sure this fits some bodies, but it does not work for mine. This often gives me a band that is tight along the bottom and loose along the top.

Over this last year, I have been told several times to raise the upper edge of the side and back band, but it wasn’t clear how to do this. Several alterations on the internet can be worked at the side seam, but a side seam is placed by the pattern maker. It can be a structural placement, or artistic, or entirely arbitrary.

So, I came up with my own way of swinging up the back of the band. To start, there is a Frame piece and a Back Wing, these together form the bra band. I join them at the seam line to have one piece to manipulate. Here is a hand drawn version since I’m not in my sewing corner.

Next, I cut a line from the bottom band, there is often a curve along this area, up to where the cup and elastic seam allowances come together. I snip the opposite side close to but not through this point. 

Then, the back band swings up into position. For me, this is usually making the upper line flat, often 1/2 inch or more added to the bottom band. But, bodies vary, so do experiment!

Because of the large amount I add below, I may then have to shorten the back band. Or, often the band was too tight, and this gives me a pleasant length of band.

One last tidbit: if I know the amount will be an inch or more, I will start with the next band size down. For example, if I need size 36C, I’ll use the sister size 34D and alter that band.