Porcelynne Demi?

 Considering the wire seems to press my sternum, I looked around for a new solution. Demi bra! There are just a few “plunge” style bra patterns out there. I decided to try the pattern from Porcelynne. I am glad I followed the “fitting band” directions included in the pattern. It fit me oddly. 

The 42 Plunge wire is nearly identical to the size 40 Orange wire that I have used in the Black Beauty Bra, just a little shorter in the middle. Also, the Porcelynne chart calls the wire a different number. The 42 Plunge is numbered 44 in this pattern. I have a fitting pack, 38-40-42, hence the 40-42-44 wires on the chart.

I made fitting bands for each wire, to see if they fit well in the band:

And then I saw a big difference between this and the other pattern I’d recently used.

No wire spring. 

(Note: This will not be a fit-issue for everyone! I have rugby balls that don’t fit in the basketball shaped cups and cradles of most patterns! Like the Cloth Habit Harriet bra pattern, this is a fantastic pattern for a certain shape.)

 I pulled out Black Beauty and compared them.

That is the Black Beauty cradle traced to the Porcelynne Eve Demi pattern. The center bridge/gore is higher on the trace because Black Beauty calls for a taller center wire height. A new fitting band was produced in the Black Beauty width with Porcelynne Demi height. 

Now I found that the wire play is not enough for this Demi wire (Orange Plunge), I need to raise the center gore/bridge a little. At this point, I stopped for the day, with a -lightbulb moment- realization that I will go into more depth in my next post.