Full of Stitches

Tuesday, February 16, 2021

BCD Help from above!

Or, at least, the North. She’s in Canada, right?

A while ago, I had commented on Beverly Johnson’s blog post about the BCD method of bra sizing. The exchange went thus: 

My comment:

I have short, wide breasts. Your BCD thing puts me in a 36B, which does not fit me. Much too small for my lower cup; pinching wires, etc. I need a wider cup with less projection. Yet, going up leaves my upper area swimming. And eventually getting the wire size leaves my breasts unsupported.

I tried the Shelley pattern because it looks like it has the seams that could offer support to drooping breasts, but I could not get it to fit comfortably. It’s like a perfectly round softball shape that I’m trying to fit rugby balls in.

Do you have any patterns available that are drafted for wide shallow breasts?


To which she replied: 


You are a low contour shape breast. While I do not draft specifically for that shape or the Omega shape (the opposite) I do find that the BCD will work to a degree but you have to take some depth out across the apex. I taper from the apex to nothing at the side and from the apex to nothing at the front. Pin out what you need to remove from the lower cup and make the upper cup seamline to match in length.


What a lovely person, replying and giving a stranger advice. And I now have a starting place. And a title for my shape, Low Contour shape. I hadn’t even seen this reply until last week! I had left my comment this time of year two years ago, and she replied the same day! 


This also shows that I have probably been altering the cups wrong. I’m going to try her method and see how the fit is compared to the method that I had been doing. Now that the band is fitting better, to have the cups fit would be lovely!

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