X’s and O’s

 With little experience sewing knits, I wanted to make some underthings. They cover a smaller area, and seem somewhat forgiving. I, of course, have fit issue#, but hubs will happily wear whatever is close. I say that in jest, but he says that he feels loved when I make him things, and he happily wears some experiments in fit.

For example, to try out the Pin-Up Girls Men’s Underwear Pattern, I cut up a T-shirt that he had said had too many holes to wear again. I had to sew the sleeves together to have just enough fabric length to get the front gusset pieces. So there is an extra seam across the front. Even so, and probably because I flatfelled the seams as best I could, he was happy with the experiment.

That pattern has two versions, described on the website: “ Lillebror features a solid fabric back with forward side seams and a shapely front, while Michael has the detailing in the back seam and a traditional front panel. Both views feature over-the-top access and an optional support sling ” 

The “feature” of over the top access is just an option. If you/your recipient prefers it, pattern pieces are included for the fly option as well. Not all men use the fly, so they have the solid piece as well. Note: The non-fly option is still doubled layered. It takes less time to sew the no-fly version, and it makes sense to include both options in a men’s underwear pattern.Well done!

I went on with my Valentine’s Day sewing by cutting out the pattern pieces for three more items: another Michael, an Altitude Thong, and a Push-up style bra.

I had purchased a Sweetheart Bundle from Bra-makers Supply of Valentine fabric and waistband and leg elastics. I used the black elastic included on the t+shirt boxers earlier. But, I had also ordered the Love waistband elastic from Laceandtrims. That turned out fantastic with the XO fabric from the kit.

For me, I started with the Altitude Thong, a downloadable pattern by Sophie Hines. I am still working out my size. I’m between Medium and Large. I think I need the front pattern height of the small or medium -the large has bunches of extra fabric on my belly- coupled with the back pattern length of the large.

I have always had issues with certain underwear styles riding weird. Usually the front bunches, and the coverage in the back is awkward  I gave up at one point and settled on bikini underwear only because of the low front rise that can’t creep down further. But, now that I am “middle aged,” I find I want a higher front expanse to cover my stretch marks. I have been getting hipsters, but then I can have Visible Panty Line (VPL) across my belly in certain dresses, and my rear in my jeans. Altitude Thong to the rescue. I didn’t like thongs before this, just uncomfortable. With this higher waistband, it sits better and doesn’t ride strangely. Also, I decided to line the front and back with powermesh. This is the same fabric as the back band of a bra. It should help smooth out any lumps and bumps, plus keep the soft bamboo rayon from stretching out.

On to the matched set: I wanted to get this bra pattern that comes with multiple length options, but Merckwaerdigh has stopped shipping physical items to the U.S. They are still selling some PDF patterns online, so this was the only option to try this Pushup pattern. I definitely wanted to try this bra style, and this is currently the only push-up pattern that I have found (Boobytrap’s Plunge bra comes close).

With this being the first bra I made from this pattern, it’s more of a fit experiment (also called a toile or muslin, named after the type of fabric traditionally used for fittings). I have yet to be able to just sew up a bra pattern and have it fit straight from suggested size. First, the pattern says to measure the underbust line, 81 cm puts me in the 80 band. Then measure around the full bust, preferably in a fitted bra, 95 cm. The difference is the cup size: B.  I decided to sew up the 80B as is, even though a 36 band (the U.S. equivalent) is usually too loose, and the cup would likely be too small (36B is 34C, and I tend towards 34D or 36C, with a larger wire). This particular bra does not take up much fabric. 

Sure enough, the band rode up in the back and the left cup was too small. The style, though, was pretty spot on! Even with the wrong wires in it (I had some rocker wires at hand instead of the plunge wires), this shape cup pulled the girls up a bit. I need to narrow the bridge, as usual, and I am looking forward to making it again!

I hope you had an enjoyable Sunday with someone or doing something that you love!