Does it fit me like a desert?

 Bra Bee is coming up, and the beginner bee uses the Sahaara pattern (not Sahara, like a desert). 

Measure: 40” bust, 32” underbust, but 33” ribcage just below (hey, learning, I’ve got a bit of rib flare). That puts me in a 32G. What? I look, and that’s actually the next pattern… I have the smaller sizes. Okay, sister sizing? I’ll just make 34F. (Note: Sister sizing is NOT the same on this pattern, the cups all have the same name while the band changes, not both changing!)

Sewed it up, tried it on. BraBuilder’s Sunshine is super bright! Too big. Like band is baggy big, can’t even about the cups with the baggy band. Weird. 

Let’s cut it out again. Wait, the printing page shows that ALL F cups are the same pieces, same volume… so, I’ll go to 32E?

 Oops, I forgot to fold up the band on the 32E, so I’m trying a longline. But, there isn’t enough fabric now to cut out all the pieces. What to do? I search for scraps from another bra that used this fabric: none. I look through my kits for a match: not really. I go to Etsy to clear my head, and take a minute to review my orders. That takes me back through everything, and I happen across some yellow bra tulle: jackpot!

The one thing I didn’t do is stabilize the edges. The twill tape in the kit is very wide! If I fold it over the edge, then sew the fold over elastic (FOE), that would make the edge very thick. Isn’t twill tape a fabric weave, so if I cut it in half , it could fray? Next time, I may try it, and put the cut edge out to be in the fold of the FOE.

How’s it fit? Well, better than most bras? The triangle in the frame is too wide. The cup seam may only be crossing my apex because the center is well away from my sternum. The outer edge of the cradle is far back - I watched their alterations video, though, so does that get pulled into place when I reduce the BCD through “moon darts”? The top of the cup is wide and baggy (same fix?). The straps are really uncomfortable, but maybe I just need more elastic because of the length of the longline? It seemed really tight, but after wearing a while, it relaxed or I adjusted.

I was thinking of adding some to the back band, but then I printed out the 34E band and found that it is TWO inches wider than the 32E… um, shouldn’t that be ONE inch per side to increase two inches across a bra band? And less than that because of stretch percentages? This bra has me a touch confused.

Alright, time to try actual fit adjustments. If I can get the center to fit where it ought, will I need to change a cup size?

(Future self note: This 32E is comfortable enough that I’ve been wearing it. Just need to adjust straps inward for my narrow shoulders)