A Fitting Course

 I saw an advert for a course to fit bras that went something like, “Want a fitting underwire bra? Join us …”  With all the struggle I have had, I jumped on the invite and signed up. I am unsure if I can do more than one, but it is a distance course, and I can make time to sew for learning purposes. I’ll sleep when I’m dead, haha. I chose to try out all five patterns. If they tell me I have to use only one, I can choose that once I see how they fit! They purposely chose the bras to cover a large range of sizes. 

The Josey and Josey Plus are only available from Bra Builders at this time, and they cover from about a range of sizes from 30-46 bands, starting from a five inch BCD (12.7 cm), think 30H or 36DD, up to 40K or 46H through sister sizing. To use the Josey, I will have to shrink the pattern as I am currently 2 sizes too small for it. I want to work on this one on my own.

The AFI Elegance is available online as a download through the AFI Atelier website or her Etsy shop. The pattern is split into 4 sizes by smaller or larger bands and by smaller or larger cups. Aim to at least get your cup size, if you buy this, as a band is more easily altered for length. This covers a range of sizes from 85A-110I (US 28A-48I).

The next two patterns are from the same company, Bra Makers Supply (BMS), and are sold under the brand Pin Up Girls (PUG for short). The course producers chose to use Amethyst from the jewel line of patterns, and Freja. They both cover sizes from 3-6 inch (7.5-13 cm) BCD, and can both use foam. In the Amethyst, the pattern suggests to go up a size if using stable fabric instead of foam, whereas the Freja does not, so that seems to mean the Amethyst’s sizes are one size smaller from Freja if using not stretchy fabrics. These patterns are only available in print. They come on large sheets of paper, and best practice is to trace or photocopy the pieces needed and keep the pattern together. Check your country for a supplier to save on shipping. For example, Canadians get the best shipping price from BMS, but USA gets a better shipping price from the American supplier, Gigi’s Bra Supply.

And, the MakeBra DL03 is a cute downloadable pattern for smaller sizes. The smallest band covers 65C-I (US 26C-I), through the largest band 95A-C (US 38A-C). 

I’m pretty excited for this to start and hope to get a tolerable bra from it. 

(Note: references to the course name have been redacted for now as there may be some miscommunication going on)

Eve for the Apples

 I found my wash-away thread! Quick sew, I need to figure out my underwire size. Porcelynne Eve can be ordered for almost(?) all of her wires. This is the Eve Classic for Vertical underwires, size 38 wires, size 34 band, cup size 34C. I’m not sure if the cup itself fits or is too tight. The wire was too tight. 

Does it fit me like a desert?

 Bra Bee is coming up, and the beginner bee uses the Sahaara pattern (not Sahara, like a desert). 

Measure: 40” bust, 32” underbust, but 33” ribcage just below (hey, learning, I’ve got a bit of rib flare). That puts me in a 32G. What? I look, and that’s actually the next pattern… I have the smaller sizes. Okay, sister sizing? I’ll just make 34F. (Note: Sister sizing is NOT the same on this pattern, the cups all have the same name while the band changes, not both changing!)

Sewed it up, tried it on. BraBuilder’s Sunshine is super bright! Too big. Like band is baggy big, can’t even about the cups with the baggy band. Weird. 

Let’s cut it out again. Wait, the printing page shows that ALL F cups are the same pieces, same volume… so, I’ll go to 32E?

 Oops, I forgot to fold up the band on the 32E, so I’m trying a longline. But, there isn’t enough fabric now to cut out all the pieces. What to do? I search for scraps from another bra that used this fabric: none. I look through my kits for a match: not really. I go to Etsy to clear my head, and take a minute to review my orders. That takes me back through everything, and I happen across some yellow bra tulle: jackpot!

The one thing I didn’t do is stabilize the edges. The twill tape in the kit is very wide! If I fold it over the edge, then sew the fold over elastic (FOE), that would make the edge very thick. Isn’t twill tape a fabric weave, so if I cut it in half , it could fray? Next time, I may try it, and put the cut edge out to be in the fold of the FOE.

How’s it fit? Well, better than most bras? The triangle in the frame is too wide. The cup seam may only be crossing my apex because the center is well away from my sternum. The outer edge of the cradle is far back - I watched their alterations video, though, so does that get pulled into place when I reduce the BCD through “moon darts”? The top of the cup is wide and baggy (same fix?). The straps are really uncomfortable, but maybe I just need more elastic because of the length of the longline? It seemed really tight, but after wearing a while, it relaxed or I adjusted.

I was thinking of adding some to the back band, but then I printed out the 34E band and found that it is TWO inches wider than the 32E… um, shouldn’t that be ONE inch per side to increase two inches across a bra band? And less than that because of stretch percentages? This bra has me a touch confused.

Alright, time to try actual fit adjustments. If I can get the center to fit where it ought, will I need to change a cup size?

(Future self note: This 32E is comfortable enough that I’ve been wearing it. Just need to adjust straps inward for my narrow shoulders)

Maris, First Go

One of the Bra Sewing Bee sew alongs uses the Maris pattern. I would like to get close to a good fit so that what I sew next month actually might fit me. It just uses the underwear pattern, but it doesn’t hurt to practice fitting the top, too.

Let’s follow the fitting chart: measure ribcage, 32.5” = Medium. Measure full bust, 40”, difference is 7.5” = E/F cup. Okay, but doubts are in my mind already. How about the bottoms? Hip 41”? Maybe 42”? I”m usually one size larger for my trousers than my t-shirts, large.

How well does it fit? Not well, might be close… Next go, I’ll size the bra up to a large, the back and elastic band need more width. The shoulder strap is pressing into my shoulder, it’s just way too wide. The cup seam may be too far out to the side. The cups seem loose.

If I just made the next larger band size, I would have to size down the cup letters to get the about same size cup: medium E/F is about the size of large C/D. I’m going up a band size, but also want to go down a cup size to try the difference. So, next try should be a Large A/B. If that’s too small, I’ll have to shorten then Large C/D cups to fit my short chest.

How about the thong? Not horrible, but the elastic is a touch tight. I’ll try the XL. If the band fits and the crotch length is too long, then I might just need to keep the Large size and use the XL elastic length.