Band Blunder

 I moved down, as suggested, from 32E to 32D. Suddenly, the band does not fit. Is it the elastic? I need to check it against the other band still to verify, but I later made another version and had the same larger band issue. This may be why Liz Sews also preferred a smaller band in her videos. I picked out the stitches for the bottom band, but still need to shorten the back band. I did try it on as best as possible, and it doesn’t fit me quite right.

I did point out to Ruhee of Ruby’s patterns Sunday during a fitting call that I had noticed a 2-inch difference between the 34 and 32 back bands of the bra, was it E or F? There should be at most an inch per side (half of the two inch difference between sizes). I received an update July 31, 2023, so I’m pretty sure she fixed that. 

So, I remembered that LilypaDesigns has a projection increase blog post. The newest version that I mentioned has that increase in it. I moved the bottom of the center front seam of the 32D by 1/4 inch per side (half inch total), smoothing it to the notch. Instead of taking the same amount out of the cradle (bowls, Ruhee calls them), and figuring all that out, I switched out both band pieces for the 32C bra. As mentioned, the band was still oddly too loose, but the cups were a bit saggy? I still need to pinch out some excess fabric in the outer cup…

More Sahaara Adventures & Beginner Bee

 This weekend was the Beginner Bee. Even though I have some experience making bras, there were a few things that were clarified and some fresh info. I was even able to do a fitting with Ruhee of Ruby’s Bras, creator of the Sahaara bra pattern. She helped me measure better the BCD & HH called for in many patterns. I was wearing my Lansdowne and that squish caused me to measure at 38” bust, which is a full inch smaller than last week’s number, and two inches smaller than a month ago… With no change in my weight. Underbust still 32”, but the BCD and HH have been notoriously hard to measure. 

Ruhee suggested that I try the D size, with the changes I made to the center gore and strap angles. Also, to help keep the straps on better, change the back strap attachment to a more upright angle. 

I did all those, sewed it up, and something was off. The band that I applied has lettering, and I think the lettering stuck to the sewing machine foot and caused it to stretch in a bad way. I’m halfway through unpicking it. I really need to use the wash away thread with these trial bras! While holding up the bra, I wondered if there is not enough projection in the cup for me. I may have to play with that.

While I was hemming and hawing over the changes I need, I sewed a new bra for my daughter. She was happy, the size was better, but I need to go down a band size for her. Also, note to self: bring her strap attachments in also.

Pandering to the Right

 I wore the yellow half tulle bra yesterday while making adjustments and sewing up a new version in black with purple roses. My left breast aches today. I need to rework the pattern with more space in the left cup because that side is at least an half cup size larger than the right, probably a full size larger. The purple and black one came out cute, though. Back to the drawing board.

Sahaara the Third

 

Another longline, but this time with FOE for the bottom edge. It does roll up a bit, but we’ll let it be a trial run. I still have the second bra elastics kit; I had requested the add-on. I have enough back band fabric for 2-3 more goes with this color tulle, so I decided on using other strap elastic and hardware for this attempt. I have some hook and loop tape, so the  back closure is four high. It’s not dyed, nor are the straps, do you think that if I soak these together, excess dye may bleed from the fabric to the undyed closure? Doubt it, but ya never know.

Pattern alterations (future me let’s you know that I did this the hard way): the center point of Watson fit me pretty well last time I made it, so I printed out the largest cradle and played with the Sahaara. I used the center front shape and height (matching the center cradle curve), and that brought the center front down at least an inch, plus gave it a steeper curve because there just isn’t as much space there as the Sahaara desires me to have. Following the Rubies video, that meant that I should remove as much from the center cup. I also removed 1/2” from the BCD.

How’s the fit? The band is a touch tighter because my hook & loop is only 2 columns wide - the 3 high premade ones were also 3 wide. The cups don’t fit, the previous bra felt better and didn’t cut across tissue as much. Too many changes at once. It’s hard to afford fitting bra patterns. This one is not going to be called wearable. 

Does it fit me like a desert?

 Bra Bee is coming up, and the beginner bee uses the Sahaara pattern (not Sahara, like a desert). 

Measure: 40” bust, 32” underbust, but 33” ribcage just below (hey, learning, I’ve got a bit of rib flare). That puts me in a 32G. What? I look, and that’s actually the next pattern… I have the smaller sizes. Okay, sister sizing? I’ll just make 34F. (Note: Sister sizing is NOT the same on this pattern, the cups all have the same name while the band changes, not both changing!)

Sewed it up, tried it on. BraBuilder’s Sunshine is super bright! Too big. Like band is baggy big, can’t even about the cups with the baggy band. Weird. 

Let’s cut it out again. Wait, the printing page shows that ALL F cups are the same pieces, same volume… so, I’ll go to 32E?

 Oops, I forgot to fold up the band on the 32E, so I’m trying a longline. But, there isn’t enough fabric now to cut out all the pieces. What to do? I search for scraps from another bra that used this fabric: none. I look through my kits for a match: not really. I go to Etsy to clear my head, and take a minute to review my orders. That takes me back through everything, and I happen across some yellow bra tulle: jackpot!

The one thing I didn’t do is stabilize the edges. The twill tape in the kit is very wide! If I fold it over the edge, then sew the fold over elastic (FOE), that would make the edge very thick. Isn’t twill tape a fabric weave, so if I cut it in half , it could fray? Next time, I may try it, and put the cut edge out to be in the fold of the FOE.

How’s it fit? Well, better than most bras? The triangle in the frame is too wide. The cup seam may only be crossing my apex because the center is well away from my sternum. The outer edge of the cradle is far back - I watched their alterations video, though, so does that get pulled into place when I reduce the BCD through “moon darts”? The top of the cup is wide and baggy (same fix?). The straps are really uncomfortable, but maybe I just need more elastic because of the length of the longline? It seemed really tight, but after wearing a while, it relaxed or I adjusted.

I was thinking of adding some to the back band, but then I printed out the 34E band and found that it is TWO inches wider than the 32E… um, shouldn’t that be ONE inch per side to increase two inches across a bra band? And less than that because of stretch percentages? This bra has me a touch confused.

Alright, time to try actual fit adjustments. If I can get the center to fit where it ought, will I need to change a cup size?

(Future self note: This 32E is comfortable enough that I’ve been wearing it. Just need to adjust straps inward for my narrow shoulders)