Ruby Class - wires and frame

 I’m working on my fitting bra, and ordered the wires in a couple extra styles. The class materials came with Regular and Long, and I had ordered Vertical and Extra Long as well. The Vertical are narrower, so I would have to order another size up to see if they fit me. I was hoping to use Longer wires to have better side support…

The class was instructed to measure ourselves and choose a pattern accordingly. My BCD measured between the size the wire that felt best’s size and my cross cup size. So, I chose the size in  the middle, but the pattern tells us to use one size up for stable fabrics, so I did. 

The frame was very large around the small wires, and the center triangle (bridge/gore) puckered. When we were instructed to make the fitting bra, I started by going down a frame size. This frame fit me much better, no puckering of the center triangle.

I tried the Long underwires first, they had fit okay in the larger frame the first week.  But, in the smaller frame, if the wires are lined up properly to center front in the channeling, it gave me a gap on the outer lower cup. To correct that would mean that I would need to adjust the center triangle to turn the wire into the upright position. I can follow the instructions, change the center which would rotate the cups, then rotate the cups back and fix the middle to match. Or..? Then, I slipped the wire further towards the center, so it stuck up in between the cups, and it fit correctly underneath.

Or, I could set them in the correct orientation and lengthen the center triangle  and adjust the upper cups? However, in this better fitting frame, the taller wires dug into my sternum. I tried the Extra Long wires, which stick up an inch above center front, and the pain was relieved. Now I know that there is a place on my sternum where I should not aim the wires to sit.

Next, I replaced the Extra Long wires with the Regular wires. They fit fine with no messing with the structure of the frame or cups.

It turns out that from Bra Makers Supply (& others that stock her items) the length is mainly added in the center front, not at the outer edge. My pics compare the Regular and Long, then the Regular and Extra Long. I did not yet try the Super Long. 

When I asked about this, I was told that the outer side does not need to go all the way up, even if I add extra coverage on the side of the bra. 

As I did not have time to do my homework until the day before class, this update covered homework for Week 2 (the fitting bra), and feedback from Week 3 class. This week we are to finish any fitting things with the frame and start fitting the cups.

Qualified for Madness

 

The sock pattern was released on Friday. I knit the whole leg and heel extension by that night, realized that I had a couple major mistakes and pulled it all out and started over. I had only a cuff when I went to bed. Saturday, I started the second cuff, then knit a pattern repeat on each sock, working in tandem to keep the tension even, and to make sure they were each worked the same amount of pattern repeats. Before midnight turned Monday to Tuesday, I had finished, weaved in ends, taken and sent in pics to the mods to qualify, and received an approval!

These sock pattern is called Hydra Scales by Clair Wyvern. I knitted the largest size, 80 stitches around for my husband. We needed a minimum of three pattern repeats on the legs, and another three from the leg extension on. Because there was a starting pattern and ending pattern not included in the repeat, that gives at least 8 helixes on the center front. I worked two extra to fit his feet. I could have stopped at the requirement or plus one and continued quicker in just the stripes, but I wanted to have the pattern go right down to the end of the stripes since it started on the cuff. I also wanted to let the toe be short to reflect the cuff. Just hints of the pastel colors throughout. 

The second sock could be knit exactly the same, or switch the colors (or to other colors), or mirrored, or even switched and mirrored! These ones are just mirrored. I do not have enough of the navy blue to use as a main color, and I wanted the colors on opposite sides on the second sock. 

I was concerned that following the pattern would result in loose socks with pointy heels. However, you can see how well they fit, and he is quite pleased with a new addition of color in his sock drawer.

BusinkaMania Classic

 

After a meeting this morning, I printed out the “Classic Brallet” from BusinkaMania. My bust ranges in size through the month, and I had it printed out at size XL (105 cm), though I measure the next size smaller today. She has a video on her YouTube channel specific to this pattern. I like the idea of having recommended stitch sizes on there. The materials links at the bottom do not take you to the products, I’m guessing she sold out on her website. It would be nice if the actual materials were listed and then an invitation to purchase at the site.

I did not pull the elastics at the armhole edge. Definitely do! 

Size wise, the band is too long for me. I will try the L (100 cm) next time. I have been wearing this one as is and find it comfortable. Just my sewing leaves a little to be desired. I did use wash away thread, as this was a test fit, so I will be able to reclaim all pieces and cut to fit the next test.

The lace and powernet were from a Porcelynne kit: Crushed Berry Bra Making Fabric and Feather Lace Kit. This kit was only fabrics. From their site:

The fabric and lace kit contain:
2 yards of hand dyed lace 24 cm (9.5") wide 
20"x26" shiny 40 denier nylon tricot 
15"x15" 240 GSM Power net
15"x15" sheer 15 denier nylon tricot
15"x15" non-stretch cup lining

I laid those fabrics out in order, and there was one more in the kit. It has some stretch in one direction, more than Duoplex. Is it simplex? I’m not sure. I also purchased what, at a glance, I thought was an amazingly priced findings kit (maybe she was phasing out the color?), but is an elastics and channeling kit.  So, check to be sure! She has several kits with various contents. 

After the band was sewn on, I didn’t have quite enough for both upper edges, as this pattern has very long edges. With the price being so low for this color, I may just send in another order and get the strap material as well. 

Next time I sew up this “Classic Brallet,” I think I will have all the matching findings and a wonderful soft bralette!

Ruby Class, week 1

 Jeanie New teaches  the classes for her store. First class we went over measurements and how to choose a starting point for the bra pattern. Homework this week is to sew up a bra using the dissolvable thread.

My measurements seem to put me across three sizes: 3.5 for the size 38 wire, 3.75 for my BCD, and 4.0 for my horizontal hemisphere (and that varies up to an inch depending on my cycle). Because of the even spread, I’m going for the middle size, though I feel I should aim for the larger to give space. I’m going with the flow of the class and trying to learn instead of rushing ahead. Interestingly, the pattern says to use the next larger size when not making foam cups.

Oh. My. Wow. This thing is so close already. So much closer to a good fit than any pattern starting out the gate. If I’d gotten this fit initially, I would have posts upon posts of happy bras! And, this is my starting point? Yes! I am looking forward to next Thursday!

Intermission: Black Beauty

 While awaiting the Ruby Fit Class, I decided to sew up a Black Beauty. 

I tried and tried a couple years ago, but I just couldn’t seem to get the size right, no matter how much Liz I watched Sew. But, now, I’ve learned more about how I feel the wire should fit, and that is my starting measurement. 

When I started this adventure, I thought I might use up to a size 46 underwire. I was over 175 pounds, and finding the side of my intramammary fold (IMF, the line around the breast) was impossible for me. As I’ve made more bras, I tried smaller wire sizes. This year, 2024, I’m using the smallest wire yet, even though I’m not that far from my starting weight. Things have shifted, or I’ve learned how it should feel on me.

Measurements?

Weight has been between 160-163 this week

Overbust: 35.5”

Bust: straight across/parallel to floor? 42”, but parallel to overbust, along top of bra: 40”

Underbust: 34”

Wire: 38

Starting size according to pattern: 34E-FF

Actual starting size: 36C. I should have used 34D, for a tighter band (these two use the same cup), but I also thought about using the same size as I fit in store, for comparison.

As this is a tester, I used whatever I had on hand. Emerald Erin often uses tulle for her bras, and I have some bra tulle, so I used that. The only adjustment was to the center gore. In this size, it’s a whole inch wide! I brought it in to 1/2 inch, and the bottom gore maybe took a little more away. This is too much off the bottom gore.  Next time I’m switching for the 34D gore, as it is only 3/4 inch wide. The wire feels good so far. The left cup was way too tight, and -wow- does it mound up!. The back band is one of those flat T-bands, so it’s trying to find its own path, plus it’s angled up, so it is riding a little high.

Take two! I added 3/8 inch across the horizontal seam at the apex notch. Now that the left feels good, I think the right feels tight. Maybe I should just go up to the next cup size, to the 34DD. The underwire seems a tiny bit long for the current cradle, so it could possibly fit into the next size up. The drawback is that my right side almost looks like it’s at the bust point, but maybe it’s just squished?

Now, it’s time to clear the sewing table, get in a stretch, and get ready for Ruby!

Schnittmuster Schneiderpuppe Mannique

 That title seem like a mouthful? It translates to: “Sewing pattern tailor’s doll Mannique.”

A tailor’s doll? Yes, a mannequin! I’m only using the top to the waist for this make, I may give her a sibling with a bottom in the future, we will see.

I saw this on AFI Atelier’s YouTube and thought I would give it a go. Sadly, my first try was with some yellow velvet from my Mom’s stash that had aged out of use. As soon as I tried to add a bit of stuffing, the fabric just came apart. This time, I’m following AFI’s suggestion and using bra foam.

Day 1: Print, assemble, cut pattern. The foam I have has some stretch in one direction, so I chose to print at 95% to allow for stretch.

Day 2: Cut out foam pieces. 

Day 3: Sew foam pieces together with zigzag stitch.

Instead of stitching up the side and later adding the armhole cover, insert it during the process. Line up the cover with the front piece, then sew up to the shoulder, and around and down the side seam.

At this point, I had two sides and worked on the zipper.

Oops, I pulled the fabric a little. Don’t do that! Or you’ll end up with a wavy back. (Note: I did not trim away the seams around the zipper yet, in the video, she does that before she adds it) Once the neck and bottom are attached, it’s time to fill her!

Day 4: I went a little overboard and made an insert… I cut and sewed another Mannique out of quilting cotton. This should also aid protecting the shape of the form.

Day 6: Fill!

I need to work on my stuffing skills a little, and the zipper is definitely wavy. She is currently lacking the inner fullness she needs to match my shape better. All in all, though, she should work. The bust is about 39 inches, and the underbust is about 33 inches. Her waist is much smaller than mine, and if I lose that then my bust will probably shrink, too… Yet, I’m content with this.

Day 7: Rest, and it shall wear bras in a good manner.

Sock Madness Sign Ups

 Ages ago, I had learned about Sock Madness, a knitting competition that occurs on Ravelry each year around about March Madness. I was not able to join because of having a baby during that time, then I forgot about it. 

However, I came across Sock Madness again this winter, and now the sign ups are open! From February 1-14, one can join the forum on Ravelry and follow the instructions to join this sock knitting competition. I have been registered, and the “warm up” sock knitting pattern has been released. 

The pattern is called In the Twilight, and it has several cables running down. I do not expect to get this one done very quickly, however, I am enjoying the cable pattern. The purple is much less pinkish than this lighting shows, and Ben is looking forward to having almost Yahoo! purple foot wear as that’s one of the businesses he fondly remembers working for.

What will you be knitting this spring?