Eve for the Apples

 I found my wash-away thread! Quick sew, I need to figure out my underwire size. Porcelynne Eve can be ordered for almost(?) all of her wires. This is the Eve Classic for Vertical underwires, size 38 wires, size 34 band, cup size 34C. I’m not sure if the cup itself fits or is too tight. The wire was too tight. 

Retribution? no, Distribution

 I have been struggling to get a good fit from a bra pattern. My Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) is short, and my Horizontal Hemisphere has measured for a size or two larger. When I purchase Ready to Wear (RTW) at the store, I struggle to find anything that fits. I’m still not sure on my wire size, as that is one of those things that changes with styles.

Let’s look at some popular patterns that have BCD sizing. 

First, the one who introduced many of us to the concept of BCD, and is the maker of  PUG patterns, Beverly Johnson. 4.0 BCD is size 36D, and its sister sizes. 

Interesting note here: the chart on her BCD page reflects how sister sizing was in RTW. Every other band size had the matching cup volume. The in-between bands had an off by one which actually gave more bra sizes and fit more women. This era of every cup goes up one band/down one cup excludes loads of women. See in the chart that 32 36 40 44 48 all have 5.0, and 34 38 42 44 all have the next quarter inch up? The very small cups, and outliers in the mid sizes are the exceptions. When sewing your own, a slight adjustment to the band length is simpler than adjusting cup sizes.

The more recent designer using BCD, Lily Fong of LilyPaDesigns has been focusing on the size based on measurements and seems to be removing the cup sizes from the patterns. But, they are still on some pattern pages in a web search to help you to know which size grouping to purchase. In her chart, 4.0 BCD is about 36C (if you add band width to the 32DD to sister size up) in her PLUS patterns, but a 36D in the CORE patterns. 

I think I am very close to fitting the Lusamine by Lilypadesigns, but I made an oopsy with my last one and the center gore wasn’t the proper adjustment. For this Lusamine, I had shortened the BCD from 4.0 to about 3.5. I did alter the center triangle to fit me better…

In photos of the bra, though, there is an obvious issue: the bottom of the cup (more on my smaller side) is wrinkling. Is it caused by the angle of the underwires being skewed? Is it from the adjustment to the BCD that I did? According to Hugs for Your Jugs, it might be more from the latter.

So, then I ponder, if lowering the BCD through the method suggested most just causes the apex arch to tip, and thus not holding it at the proper angle, how should I move the apex to adjust for a lack of bottom fullness, or indeed adjust for being more top full?

Going down in cup size may result in the lower cup fitting better, but I used the smallest PLUS cup size. Lily’s pattern are not just grouped by sizes, each size set is based on an entirely different shape, so going down to the CORE pattern means that the entire bra needs to be adjusted. I plan to soon try the 3.8 in the CORE pattern to see if it fits at all, or I may just try the CORE cups in the PLUS band.

First Completed-ish Gemini

 

This bra is so pretty! It’s not a perfect fit, but with a couple alterations I’ll wear it anyway.

The Midnight Bloom Lace Bra Kit from Bra Builders is gorgeous! And sold out at the time of this blog post. I had ordered it with the scalloped straps to try them out. They are cute, but I preferred using the 3/8-inch (10 mm?) findings because they are thinner -less plush- than the regular 1/2-inch (12 mm?) straps.

Measurements this week? 1. Upper Bust: 35”?, 2. Full Bust: 39”, 3. Breast Spacing: where exactly? One finger? The bra cradle fit well. 4. Under Bust: 32-1/2”, 

I had made a mock-up of the band for this bra without the overlay in the suggested size for my wires (34D), which is a cup size or two smaller than I measured into (34F, which I rarely fit). No problem with this pattern, the cups are in the overlay which only attaches to the side seams and straps, and can be chosen separately from the band.

For this one, I sister-sized up to the 36C, same wire, larger band. It turned out that I should have used a different overlay as I missed the info in the booklet that shared the BCD of the model this was based on. My BCD is 3.75-inches on a good day. The model was in a sister size of the one that I made (32E), and has a 4.5-inch BCD. That’s an half inch larger than PUG uses for that bra size! Oops. I don’t mind a trial bra being a little loose, but the dart went high enough to pucker in weird places. 

Also, the width of the overlay grows with each band size. I’m thinking that sizing up the band, but sizing down the overlay would have suited me better. The 36C band seemed okay, I’ll have to make minor alterations, then wear it all day to be sure. The 36C Overlay was too wide and the darts too high. I can maybe try the 34C Overlay, maybe even the 32D or C? I have to measure the darts and determine the BCDs of the different sizes. 

When I had the frame and overlay together, I basted on the straps to measure how long to make them, which is when I realized the size discrepancy. I got to play with the cup and strap placement to determine a good placement for the best fit. 

I might just open the side seams and narrow the overlay, or move the lower cup elastic for a slightly better fit. I like the bra, definitely looking forward to getting the fit down pat.

The band nearly fits out of the package. I’ll take that win!

Twins and a Class

 Labor Day, while Hubs and the adult children dismantled the deck, I followed along a Lilypadesigns class. I altered the Lanai band according to some of the instructions, and added another alteration that I’ll gauge better once I sew it up. While doing that, I washed the thread out of the previous version, and I’m waiting for it to dry so that I can reuse the elastics.

After altering the Lanai, I looked through the patterns I have and came across The Gemini. There were some cute swim tops out over the last couple years that have this crossed wrap look, but they do not suit me. When I saw The Gemini for the first time, I was excited to see there was a solution to the issue. The Gemini has either the bralette style with crossed wrap, or a bra style that contains an underwire cradle to hold the girls up while the wrap tames them in.

I measured and wondered why I do. Then, I sewed up just the cradle with back to see if this was the right size. Only issue, The Gemini calls for Regular wires, which normally refers to the ones from Bra Makers Supply. I did order some, but they haven’t arrived yet. I do have most of a set of Sew Sassy wires, though, and I compared those to the BMS chart. It looks like the sizes are off by one. The Sew Sassy 40 is about the size of the BMS 42. I tucked those into the 34E band and tried it on. No? It feels like there is excess space between the wire and my outer breast… 

Then I printed out and sewed the 34D. But, I don’t seem to have the Sew Sassy 38 wire, and the website doesn’t show them as available! I cut the back from some scraps that I had, but it turns out that tge ones I chose  were Firm Powermesh, and the earlier one had been from regular. The elastics may also have been firmer. The band was a bit tight. I checked the Carmen underwires against the chart, and tried it on with those. Better! Just need a bra-back extender.

This project will be on hold until the wires arrive. If they don’t fit comfortably, then I may need to alter the pattern for other underwires. Carmen will be my backup plan, they seem to fit okay.

Sewing for the Birthday Boy

 

Three day weekend coming up here in the USA. The little guy needs some fresh chonies, and I picked up this fun superhero bamboo from Bra Builders after the Bra Bee. We looked through my elastics stash and he picked the fun one to go on his new boxer briefs. This red and black elastic was purchased at B,Wear. I showed him the Jalie 3242 pattern and let him choose the style he liked.

I was hoping to use my serger, but have managed to misplace the manual while moving from Hub’s office to my basement workspace. I expect that I’ll find it soon, but I want to get these done.

In order to make these more comfortable, I’m enclosing the “Pouch” seam, just like a gusset on girls’ underwear. The fashion fabric is face to face -Right Sides Together - and the lining is Right side to the fashion fabric’s Wrong side. This will make those center seams AND side seams be inside the Pouch.

While batch sewing, when one seam ends, just lift the foot, pull a tiny bit of thread through, and start the next seam. This saves thread. 

Now, to enclose the seam. Pin the fashion fabric, Right Sides Together.

Now, I turn the project around (not necessarily needed, but for photos, so you can see better).

We’re going to roll the fabric up between the Pouch pieces.

But, we need to not have too much bulk in the crotch end, so I fold it first diagonally.

Then roll it. See how the Pouch Lining is easily accessed for the next step?

Pin the Pouch and its Lining together, and sew!

Enclosed Pouch. Looks rather comfy. The inseam would be nice in a cover stitch, but I don’t have one, and need to find that serger manual for a good substitute. For now, I’m using the Overlock in my sewing machine. 

I’ll finish these up tomorrow. Hems just need to be turned up and sewn, and the elastic Waistbands added.

(Next morning)

All done. I was able to get four pairs of the low waist trunks from the half yard cut of bamboo from Bra Builders. I’ll need more to get as many next time! The boy is growing.