Maybe No Wire

 Am I wrong to want a little lift? Maybe wires just don’t fit me? I can wear some from the store, my favorites are frameless ones with really low centers. Let’s turn to wireless bras, also called soft cups or lounge bras.

I ordered the much blogged about Watson Bra pattern. I think I missed the size I need just a little. I made the 34D instead of the 36D. (Note: I checked, I made a 36C the first time.) The band is just a little tight (Note: probably because I lined it with stable fabric in the front), and the right cup is nearly correct, a little loose at the underarm. The left cup could use more side coverage. (Planning to print out the 38C band for extra breathing space and to fit that bigger cup; 38C = 36D.)

I used all stash material: purple stretch velvet from Mom’s stash (might have been a costume when my nephew was younger), black cherry elastics picked from an earlier attempt at a bra, stable mesh for the front band, the slightly stretchy cup lining mesh for the cups, and firm powernet to line the back band. 

Minor fitting issues aside, I very happily wore this for 24 hours when I finished sewing it. Will have to adjust and make again!

2021 Jan 23

 

I lost some weight in 2019 by being active and eating well. Then with the whole pain in the abdomen issue, I stopped being active. With the whole pain thing associated with eating or not, I didn’t gain it all back, just about 15 pounds. That means I’m still smaller than when I first tried to make my own underpinnings, so I have to start from scratch size wise.

Current measurements:

Bust: 37-38” (94-96.5 cm)

Band (underbust): tight (breathe out all the way) 31.5” (81 cm), snug 33” (84 cm), deep breath 34.5” (89 cm)

Overbust (ribcage): 34” (86 cm)

Waist: 33-35” (84-89 cm)

Hips: 41” (104 cm)

I usually buy Medium tops (8-10) and Large size bottoms (10-12) in U.S. sizes.

I know that my bust is closely spaced, wide (wire size), shallow (not projecting far), short (from connection to bust point is where I carry most of it, and theatre linear measurement is short compared to my edge to edge measurement), and somewhat pendulous (breastfed eight humans).

First bra pattern up to bat: Black Beauty by Emerald Erin

According to the pattern and my measurements, I should make size 34D. 

So I printed out sizes 34D and 34DD. The wire will fit the larger size band, and I can modify the cups to match the wire line from the larger size. I used the narrowest bridge width so the wires don’t sit on my tissue in the middle.

My practice go went okay, but the right side bagged out, so I need a 34C for the right cup. I adjusted the pattern again and that gave me the lovely blue Ewa Lace bra in the photo! 

This is the best fit attempt I have made yet, but my sternum aches by the end of the day. I need to adjust something, but not sure what.

2021 Cautiously Optimistic

 I can’t remember getting much sewing done in 2020. I was laid up, not comfortable to sit for long for much of the year. There were a few odds and ends, maybe mending, but nothing noteworthy. 

Towards the end of the year, I finally got to the point that I could do some exercises (thank you to my Physical Therapist), and now I can sew again!

And, I’ve been hard pressed to get some things made!

A lot of shopping has moved online, and many stores don’t even have dressing rooms available to try before you buy. Personally, I don’t like to purchase items for my harder to fit areas without trying them on first. And, I do like the instant gratification from taking a huge pile of clothes into the tiny change room and emerging with maybe one or two items that I can happily wear for the season. 

Well, I haven’t been getting to the store much, and I can finally sew, so... I’m looking forward to getting into my stash and getting some patterns to fit me. I inherited my Mom’s stash of haberdashery fun, too. She became a quilter in her later years, which I don’t currently do much of. I’m looking to clothe myself and my family to some degree. 

The plan: Make an outfit. A complete outfit. I’m not yet up to any big adventures, like sewing a full capsule wardrobe, but I have decided on the first outfit that I would like to create. My idea is to make the top, bottom, and underthings. Perhaps I’ll even get up to knitting matching socks at some point. 

For now, I’m working on the elusive fit of the brassiere. And that will be the next post.