Altering the Angle of the Back Band

 The angle that the back wing comes off the front frame is often quite down-sloping. I’m sure this fits some bodies, but it does not work for mine. This often gives me a band that is tight along the bottom and loose along the top.

Over this last year, I have been told several times to raise the upper edge of the side and back band, but it wasn’t clear how to do this. Several alterations on the internet can be worked at the side seam, but a side seam is placed by the pattern maker. It can be a structural placement, or artistic, or entirely arbitrary.

So, I came up with my own way of swinging up the back of the band. To start, there is a Frame piece and a Back Wing, these together form the bra band. I join them at the seam line to have one piece to manipulate. Here is a hand drawn version since I’m not in my sewing corner.

Next, I cut a line from the bottom band, there is often a curve along this area, up to where the cup and elastic seam allowances come together. I snip the opposite side close to but not through this point. 

Then, the back band swings up into position. For me, this is usually making the upper line flat, often 1/2 inch or more added to the bottom band. But, bodies vary, so do experiment!

Because of the large amount I add below, I may then have to shorten the back band. Or, often the band was too tight, and this gives me a pleasant length of band.

One last tidbit: if I know the amount will be an inch or more, I will start with the next band size down. For example, if I need size 36C, I’ll use the sister size 34D and alter that band.

MakeBra DL01

 It’s been a while since I made a bra that nearly fits. So today, I measured and checked the chart for DL01 by MakeBra. This is a foam cup bra with a stretch band. 

With about 34 inches (84 cm) underbust and about 16 cm difference, I measure into 85B. I sewed up a cup and tried to put it over my breast and it did not contain it. I’ll set it aside to have the smallest band length and become 65F for my daughter (same exact cup on a different ribcage makes the cup a different letter).

I cut out the next size up, 85C, and this looks like it will cover.

 Oh, and I decided to check the wire chart at this point. They have a printable on their Materials page. I printed the chart, checked the square that it printed to size, and set my underwire on the chart and the pattern piece. I can see I will need to raise the wireline on the pattern piece.

The Round 40 underwire (about the size of the BMS Long 40) almost fits on their suggested U256. My wire is a tiny bit wider, and about 1/4 inch longer. I also compared the Bliss 42 (which is the size of BMS Vertical Long 42), as this wire seems to fit me better. The Bliss 42 is nearly identical to the wire shape, except the underarm side is 3/4 inch longer. I would raise the side 1 inch to give it play. For me, raising the side this amount will add to the comfort.

The Bliss 42 is close to the same length as the Round 40 and Carmen 38, and all three of these wires have the same bowl, the arm angles are what changes.

The next thing is to check band fit. They have a suggestion on their website to cut out a band from stable fabric with extra length to tie in place. I know I have to change the center front gore, but I  am unsure how much. So, here we go!

I have a random Easter colors seersucker scrap in Mom’s things. This was just wide enough for this, thanks Mom! I added an inch to the center front and 8 inches to the center back. 

I slipped in the wires and tied it on and … it does not fit! Too big! The straps are far apart and the upper cups gape. The back is angled to slide down.

Back to the sewing table, I cut out another band, just! This one follows the bra band I’ve been working with in the Mentorship so it won’t slide down my back, and the wireline is different. I use the extra space between to try a different underwire. Cannot use the next size down in Vertical/Bliss! So, I close the gap on the front and put the Carmen 36 in to test. They bite when they slide out of the channeling, but may work. The cups seem better, but one is getting that fold on the bottom of the cup. Maybe the cup spacing or angle is still off. A real test bra will have to be tried.