Twins and a Class

 Labor Day, while Hubs and the adult children dismantled the deck, I followed along a Lilypadesigns class. I altered the Lanai band according to some of the instructions, and added another alteration that I’ll gauge better once I sew it up. While doing that, I washed the thread out of the previous version, and I’m waiting for it to dry so that I can reuse the elastics.

After altering the Lanai, I looked through the patterns I have and came across The Gemini. There were some cute swim tops out over the last couple years that have this crossed wrap look, but they do not suit me. When I saw The Gemini for the first time, I was excited to see there was a solution to the issue. The Gemini has either the bralette style with crossed wrap, or a bra style that contains an underwire cradle to hold the girls up while the wrap tames them in.

I measured and wondered why I do. Then, I sewed up just the cradle with back to see if this was the right size. Only issue, The Gemini calls for Regular wires, which normally refers to the ones from Bra Makers Supply. I did order some, but they haven’t arrived yet. I do have most of a set of Sew Sassy wires, though, and I compared those to the BMS chart. It looks like the sizes are off by one. The Sew Sassy 40 is about the size of the BMS 42. I tucked those into the 34E band and tried it on. No? It feels like there is excess space between the wire and my outer breast… 

Then I printed out and sewed the 34D. But, I don’t seem to have the Sew Sassy 38 wire, and the website doesn’t show them as available! I cut the back from some scraps that I had, but it turns out that tge ones I chose  were Firm Powermesh, and the earlier one had been from regular. The elastics may also have been firmer. The band was a bit tight. I checked the Carmen underwires against the chart, and tried it on with those. Better! Just need a bra-back extender.

This project will be on hold until the wires arrive. If they don’t fit comfortably, then I may need to alter the pattern for other underwires. Carmen will be my backup plan, they seem to fit okay.

The First One I ever Bought

 Years ago, I became interested in sewing my underthings. I considered purchasing a bra pattern to try. Then, we moved house, and I completely forgot. I’ve seen this pattern online, waiting to be noticed back there, to get picked up... Then, in 2018, I purchased it.

I didn't have any practice, skill, or teacher. There weren't many videos yet on bra sewing and fitting. I picked up a different pattern and tried it, and another...

Finally, frustrated with the fit I have been getting. Knowing there’s a lot of work ahead to get a fitting bra, I pick up my copy of Élan #645. Now, this pattern is in an envelope, the pattern pieces were not in the computer to be printed, but were on an ancient thin substance like tissue paper. Delicate, tear-able; I photo copied the suggested size: 36D. 

I do admit that I was taken aback at how tall the bridge looked, but I was also surprised that the angle of the cup placement seemed similar to what I try to achieve. Wire spring seems minimal, if at all there.

I hesitated after cutting the back band in powermesh and front pieces out in bra tulle (the non-stretchy type used for bridges). The thought of a "fitting band" came to mind, and I set aside the cups. I sewed the cradle to the wings (back band), and applied the channeling and elastic. I only used enough strap elastic to hold a ring, and added hooks and eyes in the back. 

First fitting: the bottom of the band is tight, the top of the back band is flopping. But, the cradle! The bridge is a mere 1/8th inch onto my breast, otherwise seemingly perfect! I sliced off 1/16th inch from the center of the cradle to remove that 1/8th inch in total.

Should I go up in size? I copy out the 38 band size. But! There is not a cradle that matches the first one for this band... There is a gap between C & D. I copy out size 40 band. The C is similar to the 36 band’s D. This is the first bra pattern I have seen with store-bra style sizing rather than the exact sister sizing of other pattern makers. My size 40 wire should be matching the 40B, not 40C... Mayhaps this is the wire spring?

There’s something else, though. The 40 band has an added wedge to separate the cups more. They have not graded up sizes, they drafted for different placement. I check the cups, they, too, are shaped different from the smaller band. I may try each later to see if one style works with less changes to fit me.

I took a stab at the 40 band, removing the wedge and adding that to the back band (drew a line from B at the bottom to C at the top to add the 1/4 inch). Also, removed an inch from the back band to make it closer to the 38 band size. This didn’t work as well as the size 36 band I had used first. I set it aside and returned to the 36 band. 

Adding 3/4 inch to the whole back was too much, and the upper back flopped more. Hubs tried to reassure me that the strap alone being added will fix it, even though he said that the first time. 

Instead, I started again with the 36 band, added 1/2 Inch along the band, removed 3/4 inch along the upper edge, and sewed yet another fitting band. Holy grails, Batman! I have a nearly wearable bra band! 

Tune in next time to find out if a cup pattern can actually fit my short, wide, oval mammary holders.

Same bra time!

Same bra channel!