Finally Time to Fit

 Finally,  a direction! The session started out with some general directions to be followed by anyone the fitter told needed it. I’m a bit surprised that the measurements on the alterations are the same for ALL of us, not unique to individuals. Okay, I’ll consider it a minor change.

They asked us to raise our zoom hands and wait our turns. There was some comments to the presenters, some jostling of the list for those at work. No one sent me any info before or during my turn. Yet, when my turn came, the fitter asked me how many bras I’d be fitting that day, and before I could answer some woman on their team spoke over me to say that I could only do two, and blatantly lied that it had been discussed with me. I am shook that such gaslighting is happening in this group. 

In the previous session, when they glanced at my bras, I had told the fitter that I only had two pairs of underwires in the correct size. I was able to show two and then go to the back of the line. The morning sessions had less people in attendance. The next sessions were scheduled on the weekend, and more people would be there…

Afterwards, I asked the fitter if I should cut down on the number of patterns. She expressed that it was fine. So, what’s with that other lady? There was not limiting information on the sign up. There were five patterns stated. 

Initializing Size

 I started the fitting course with the mind to try each of the patterns I fit within the range of sizes. The course had five suggestions, and only one did not size me to begin with. The fitters asked us not to do anything without their instruction! The first thing was to verify the starting wire with them. This is done on bare skin, with the arm overhead in order to bring the inframammary crease into its optimal shape. I fit the 40 Vertical or 40 Bliss best. 

The next stop was to make a fitting bra. If you haven’t heard of a fitting band before, it is a bra made without the cups. These work well for those who are self supporting. The idea of a fitting bra is to have the cups basted or pinned on so that the wearer can test it while actually having the weight of the breasts lifted into place. The drawback is if the cups are too small, the breast will be pushed out into the wireline and cause poor fit. And, if the cups are too big, the tension may be off and may be difficult to tell if band or cup causes it. But, if you shift your breast tissue into the cup, it should show inconsistency in size.

Before I cut and sewed the patterns, I printed or copied each out. I cut out the cups with no seam allowances and taped them together to check the size. 

My family gave me the go ahead to sew, and got into a game, while I made an assembly line to cut out and sew the four patterns. I sewed up the MakeBra DL03, AFI Elegance, and, from Pin Up Girls patterns , both Freja and Ruby -but with adaptations for Ruby to become the Amethyst.

The MakeBra DL03 was sewn in size 85C. The band is entirely powernet or can be split at the side (but add seam allowances!) for a different look. The lower band was snug even in the powernet. I was asked to try the next cup size down, so I sewed the second one with the stable front in 90A (up one band in number and down one in letters, 90B would be the same cups). This cup size was too small, and the band was too tight. Back to the original cup size. Did not need that side quest except to realize the band was too small. Over the course of that first week, my measurements increased! The next one I chose to make was 95B. This or 95A will be my size on this pattern.

AFI Elegance measured in size 85C. After the surprise increase on the DL03, I sewed up size 90B. With my vertical wires, the cups looked too small, so I sewed up the 90C. These cups fit well with my wires, so it became my starting size.

PUG Amethyst (Ruby) was copied  in 4.0, but the cross cup dimension did not meet my size. So, I copied the 4.25, which also wasn’t large enough.  I verified with the fitters that I was allowed to go up one more size. This one seemed to measure better on the paper cup, so I sewed both 4.25 and 4.5 to figure out my starting size. It seems 4.5 works better

PUG Freja 4.0 also seemed a bit small on the paper cup, and so I verified with the fitters and sewed up both 4.0 and 4.25. Surprisingly, 4.25 fit better.

Hurry up, wait. Verify everything. Will we be allowed to change anything in the next time together with the fitters?

The First One I ever Bought

 Years ago, I became interested in sewing my underthings. I considered purchasing a bra pattern to try. Then, we moved house, and I completely forgot. I’ve seen this pattern online, waiting to be noticed back there, to get picked up... Then, in 2018, I purchased it.

I didn't have any practice, skill, or teacher. There weren't many videos yet on bra sewing and fitting. I picked up a different pattern and tried it, and another...

Finally, frustrated with the fit I have been getting. Knowing there’s a lot of work ahead to get a fitting bra, I pick up my copy of Élan #645. Now, this pattern is in an envelope, the pattern pieces were not in the computer to be printed, but were on an ancient thin substance like tissue paper. Delicate, tear-able; I photo copied the suggested size: 36D. 

I do admit that I was taken aback at how tall the bridge looked, but I was also surprised that the angle of the cup placement seemed similar to what I try to achieve. Wire spring seems minimal, if at all there.

I hesitated after cutting the back band in powermesh and front pieces out in bra tulle (the non-stretchy type used for bridges). The thought of a "fitting band" came to mind, and I set aside the cups. I sewed the cradle to the wings (back band), and applied the channeling and elastic. I only used enough strap elastic to hold a ring, and added hooks and eyes in the back. 

First fitting: the bottom of the band is tight, the top of the back band is flopping. But, the cradle! The bridge is a mere 1/8th inch onto my breast, otherwise seemingly perfect! I sliced off 1/16th inch from the center of the cradle to remove that 1/8th inch in total.

Should I go up in size? I copy out the 38 band size. But! There is not a cradle that matches the first one for this band... There is a gap between C & D. I copy out size 40 band. The C is similar to the 36 band’s D. This is the first bra pattern I have seen with store-bra style sizing rather than the exact sister sizing of other pattern makers. My size 40 wire should be matching the 40B, not 40C... Mayhaps this is the wire spring?

There’s something else, though. The 40 band has an added wedge to separate the cups more. They have not graded up sizes, they drafted for different placement. I check the cups, they, too, are shaped different from the smaller band. I may try each later to see if one style works with less changes to fit me.

I took a stab at the 40 band, removing the wedge and adding that to the back band (drew a line from B at the bottom to C at the top to add the 1/4 inch). Also, removed an inch from the back band to make it closer to the 38 band size. This didn’t work as well as the size 36 band I had used first. I set it aside and returned to the 36 band. 

Adding 3/4 inch to the whole back was too much, and the upper back flopped more. Hubs tried to reassure me that the strap alone being added will fix it, even though he said that the first time. 

Instead, I started again with the 36 band, added 1/2 Inch along the band, removed 3/4 inch along the upper edge, and sewed yet another fitting band. Holy grails, Batman! I have a nearly wearable bra band! 

Tune in next time to find out if a cup pattern can actually fit my short, wide, oval mammary holders.

Same bra time!

Same bra channel!