Finally Time to Fit

 Finally,  a direction! The session started out with some general directions to be followed by anyone the fitter told needed it. I’m a bit surprised that the measurements on the alterations are the same for ALL of us, not unique to individuals. Okay, I’ll consider it a minor change.

They asked us to raise our zoom hands and wait our turns. There was some comments to the presenters, some jostling of the list for those at work. No one sent me any info before or during my turn. Yet, when my turn came, the fitter asked me how many bras I’d be fitting that day, and before I could answer some woman on their team spoke over me to say that I could only do two, and blatantly lied that it had been discussed with me. I am shook that such gaslighting is happening in this group. 

In the previous session, when they glanced at my bras, I had told the fitter that I only had two pairs of underwires in the correct size. I was able to show two and then go to the back of the line. If I was allowed one at a time, rotating to the back of the line after each, I would have accepted it. But to blatantly lie? 

Afterwards, I asked the fitter if I should cut down on the number of patterns. She expressed that it was fine. So, what’s with that other lady? There was not limiting information on the sign up. There were five patterns stated. 

Initializing Size

 I started the fitting course with the mind to try each of the patterns I fit within the range of sizes. The course had five suggestions, and only one did not size me to begin with. The fitters asked us not to do anything without their instruction! The first thing was to verify the starting wire with them. This is done on bare skin, with the arm overhead in order to bring the inframammary crease into its optimal shape. I fit the 40 Vertical or 40 Bliss best. 

The next stop was to make a fitting bra. If you haven’t heard of a fitting band before, it is a bra made without the cups. These work well for those who are self supporting. The idea of a fitting bra is to have the cups basted or pinned on so that the wearer can test it while actually having the weight of the breasts lifted into place. The drawback is if the cups are too small, the breast will be pushed out into the wireline and cause poor fit. But, if you shift your breast tissue into the cup, it should show any inconsistency in size.

Before I cut and sewed the patterns, I printed or copied each out. I cut out the cups with no seam allowances and taped them together to check the size. 

My family gave me the go ahead to sew, and got into a game, while I made an assembly line to cut out and sew the four patterns. I sewed up the MakeBra DL03, AFI Elegance, and from Pin Up Girls patterns , both Freja and Ruby -but with adaptations for Ruby to become the Amethyst.

The MakeBra DL03 was sewn in size 85C. The band is entirely powernet or can be split at the side (but add seam allowances!) for a different look. The lower band was snug even in the powernet. I was asked to try the next cup size down, so I sewed the second one with the stable front in 90A (up one band in number and down one in letters, 90B would be the same cups). This cup size was too small, and the band was too tight. Back to the original cup size. Did not need that side quest except to realize the band was too small. Over the course of that first week, my measurements increased! The next one I chose to make was 95B. This or 95A will be my size on this pattern.

AFI Elegance measured in size 85C. After the surprise increase on the DL03, I sewed up size 90B. With my vertical wires, the cups looked too small, so I sewed up the 90C. These cups fit well with my wires, so it became my starting size.

PUG Amethyst (Ruby) was copied  in 4.0, but the cross cup dimension did not meet my size. So, I copied the 4.25, which also wasn’t large enough.  I verified with the fitters that I was allowed to go up one more size. This one seemed to measure better on the paper cup, so I sewed both 4.25 and 4.5 to figure out my starting size. It seems 4.5 works better

PUG Freja 4.0 also seemed a bit small on the paper cup, and so I verified with the fitters and sewed up both 4.0 and 4.25. Surprisingly, 4.25 fit better.

Hurry up, wait. Verify everything. Will we be allowed to change anything in the next time together with the fitters?

A Fitting Course

 I saw an advert for a course to fit bras that went something like, “Want a fitting underwire bra? Join us …”  With all the struggle I have had, I jumped on the invite and signed up. I am unsure if I can do more than one, but it is a distance course, and I can make time to sew for learning purposes. I’ll sleep when I’m dead, haha. I chose to try out all five patterns. If they tell me I have to use only one, I can choose that once I see how they fit! They purposely chose the bras to cover a large range of sizes. 

The Josey and Josey Plus are only available from Bra Builders at this time, and they cover from about a range of sizes from 30-46 bands, starting from a five inch BCD (12.7 cm), think 30H or 36DD, up to 40K or 46H through sister sizing. To use the Josey, I will have to shrink the pattern as I am currently 2 sizes too small for it. I want to work on this one on my own.

The AFI Exquisite is available online as a download through the AFI Atelier website or her Etsy shop. The pattern is split into 4 sizes by smaller or larger bands and by smaller or larger cups. Aim to at least get your cup size, if you buy this, as a band is more easily altered for length. This covers a range of sizes from 85A-110I (US 28A-48I).

The next two patterns are from the same company, Bra Makers Supply (BMS), and are sold under the brand Pin Up Girls (PUG for short). The course producers chose to use Amethyst from the jewel line of patterns, and Freja. They both cover sizes from 3-6 inch (7.5-13 cm) BCD, and can both use foam. In the Amethyst, the pattern suggests to go up a size if using stable fabric instead of foam, whereas the Freja does not, so that seems to mean the Amethyst’s sizes are one size smaller from Freja if using not stretchy fabrics. These patterns are only available in print. They come on large sheets of paper, and best practice is to trace or photocopy the pieces needed and keep the pattern together. Check your country for a supplier to save on shipping. For example, Canadians get the best shipping price from BMS, but USA gets a better shipping price from the American supplier, Gigi’s Bra Supply.

And, the MakeBra DL03 is a cute downloadable pattern for smaller sizes. The smallest band covers 65C-I (US 26C-I), through the largest band 95A-C (US 38A-C). 

I’m pretty excited for this to start and hope to get a tolerable bra from it. 

(Note: references to the course name have been redacted for now as there may be some miscommunication going on)

Mésange Bra

 Last night I sewed up the Hari Ito Mésange Bra in size 38C. I have a pack from B,Wear that was one of the first kits I had purchased there, and this just called for it. It does seem a little silly to sew a test bra out of a kit, but it’s been in stash for ages, and the findings were pilfered for some other make.

I had sewn a practice bra ages ago, but it did not fit, was just white powernet and maybe marquisette for the frame. For this one, I followed each instruction almost to the letter - I should have trimmed the dart seam, but I did want to know where it ends. But, the band was tight! I think the power net is firm instead of regular strength, and for me that requires a longer band. Are the cups too big? 

Take two! This morning, I sewed up the 40A using the same kit. But, now I’m half spilling. Let’s figure this out!

The most obvious issue here is the darts are just way out there causing east-westing to no end. Let’s look at their display model and see what’s going on. Mésange on Hari Ito

The bra is only displayed on a mannequin. It would be interesting to see what they expect it to look like on a human.

Their band looks differently shaped than mine at center front. The super rounded under wire area is practically smooth, center front bridge is evenly joined… I have no reason to keep this bridge shaping that’s been added on my size, so maybe I’ll fill in the gap. Others may need that shaping, so it’s a nice option.

Ah ha! The side view gives me a clue as to what is happening. The wires look tilted back and end somewhat low. It looks similar on the mannequin I made, but on my body, the wires follow the inframammary fold and sit more upright. Because of this, the bra cups are rotated further up, and I’m spilling more than the pattern is supposed to. 

And, they have a pattern for Extra Cups for this pattern. These are in stable fabric instead of stretch. In those pictures, the dart looks like it is set nearly vertical. I may try them next to see.

How should I progress? First, the band needs love to fit me. The bottom of the band has scrunchy fabric, so I need to raise that edge to remove the excess. Fill in the lower front bridge some because I don’t have roundness on my torso right there. 

Then, those cups. I think the dart needs to be rotated. It seems to end at the right area, but the angle puts it in an area that doesn’t need the space (the dart is creating a shaped area). I want that shaping to be more under and less on the side. I think only an half to one inch shift of the dart should work. 

I’m looking forward to working on this some more. It’s a really cute pattern!

Jordy Bralette

 Last fall (beginning of the school year), the Hive had a class for the Jordy Bralette. I had tried it before and the size I was sized into seemed off. I decided to try the pattern again today. I haven’t finished it yet, but it looks pretty.

I looked around for a kit, but this one is missing its rings and sliders. I’ll use up the end of the green lace to test the Jordy!

My under bust (ribcage) measurement varies, today it was close to 34 inches. My bust measurement was between 41 to 42 inches, depending on how I took it. The pattern puts me into size 34F.

I did not stretch the elastics, and I feel this was a mistake. The elastic is on top of the fabric, the feed dogs of a sewing machine pull the fabric through, and the elastic is on top against the foot. Sometimes the top is pulled somewhat naturally, but this is not as useful with the thick plush elastic. I need to just barely stretch it for this pattern to help it snug up against my outer fullness. 

I’m also wondering about the band elastic. It will stretch around my torso, but the cups are stable. If the stable cup bottom is being pulled open, flat, then it will more likely smoosh the bust. I may need to gather the bottom of the cups a bit, then sew them in place.

The cups are very wide, and that’s okay, even though they have little shaping for my shape body. This is fine, it probably works well as is for other busts! For me, the outer cup side is just past my bust, so that the outer edge is a touch loose. I need to basically take a dart out. Instead of pinching out fabric, I raised the elastic to cover a full inch on the outside corner, instead of an half an inch.

For the center front, I started by overlapping the cups. This brings the cup seam closer to my fullest part. Next, I tucked the center front another 1/4 inch down into the band. 

I may tack on the straps and pin this together again soon. I’m happy with how much I was able to do today.

Bralette Drafting Woes

 I’ve been in the bra mentorship since the end of August. Thus far, we worked on underpants and bralettes. I’m looking forward to the next step, bra fitting bands. We will take the band from the bralette and fit cups into it. 

I really don’t know how to fit cups to me in a regular pattern. Perhaps the band was wrong? But, then I change the band and it affects the cup? So, then the band and cups have to be altered to get the cups back to the right orientation? And, if the underwire is different than the one the pattern maker calls for, then changes need made to support that!

So, I tried one last time to make the bralette fit, and I did not succeed again. Somehow, measuring on my body is not giving me measurement that fit me. Through the band seems to be improving, these two piece cups just won’t cooperate. Also, new machine for Christmas (thank you, my love!), and I’m wondering if the vertical cup seam is just stretched?

What’s right? I think the band is much improved.

What’s wrong? Those cups have wound up with too much space well above the apex. The first stretch cups were at 15% stretch reduction, and this time I chose 10%. It could be that. I tried going for a 4 inch BCD instead of 3.75 inch because measuring after holidays… I think the upper cup somehow wound up with excess shaping.

But, it was expressed that we need cups that actually fit in order to alter the seam lines to make other shapes that actually fit. Maybe I’ll give the cups another try, so I’ll just move on to the next assignment and come back to these later.

A Very Roomy Wireline

 

This wireline was drawn for the wider underwire. It was apparently made to have close to an half inch of “wire spring” and them the pattern was flattened to allow for lace edge (page 86 of the 2nd Bra Makers Manual). 

The narrower underwire is what fits me. Therefore the difference between the two comes out as “wire spring,” or excess space between wire and wireline. Now, I’ve adjusted the frame as directed in the general fitting adjustments, and there is still over 2 inches of gap between my wire and the wireline, or an extra inch between the wires that mine would have to stretch or pull against the frame. 

I’m pointing this out because this brand of pattern seems to do something to the wire or hold it in such a way that it digs into my sides. I’m really hoping there is a fix for this. I like the height on these bands, but is that the issue? Should I switch the cups to another bra band and see if the fit improves? I’ll see if this adjustment works by wearing these over the weekend.

New Year, new Hurrah

 Revisiting the PUG Ruby Bra. I started watching the class recordings to pick up info I’ve forgotten. I picked up a poorly labeled bra from last spring and tried pinning out areas that weren’t fitting. Then I traced out a new pattern with the alterations and came up with this.

It doesn’t fit. My biggest issue with most bra patterns is that there is not room for my breast tissue where I need it. If I take a top down picture, it will show that the cups (and this mannequin) is made for someone without inner fullness.

This bra has bagginess at the outer cups, too. I’m going to shelf it again for a bit. I need to learn how to shift the shaping around more efficiently before I tackle this again.