Jalie 4344, first try

 This one is for the cycling people, and I’m not talking bicycles.

Jalie 4344 is a Period Underpants pattern. I made it up in size Y. The absorbent area is the triple thickness because I had planned to have it done in time for my heavy flow day(s). Surprise, I was busy and didn’t get the waistband on in time. I’ll try it out on a regular flow or overnight and hope for the best. 

The pant is made from bamboo jersey, there’s a wicking lining, feels like polyester, and the core is made from Zorb or something similar. This kit came from BraBuilders for the Bra Sewing Bee. They are planning a class on Period Underwear. The lining fabric in the kit is not cut long enough for the Jalie pattern, so make sure to order the proper size. 

I have seen other period pants makers suggest using bamboo as the lining because it may have wicking properties, but if you do, don’t use the same color as the outside of the pants! You don’t want to accidentally wear them inside out.

Thoughts from just sewing it up? Three layers may be too thick, the edges of the crotch gusset look like they’re pulling something fierce. I took the time to pre wash the fabrics, so after my run, I’ll try these on.

Changes? I sewed FOE to the top edge instead of adding the self-fabric waistband or sewing on an elastic or lace waistband and cutting down the difference behind it. I generally have to make changes to a pattern for my body shape, but just sewed this straight to try it out.

Testing fit: The front rides about 2 inches lower than the back. The back is nearly at my natural waist. The built in pad (gusset) is not as far forward as I would wear one, and the back side of it is thick feeling. I expect if I shift the gusset forward a couple inches, the padding will ride at a more comfortable place.

Note to self: too much padding. Remember diapers back in the day? Better to make it able to dry in a reasonable time, and add an extra pad inside than deal with things that won’t dry and therefore have issues.one to two max layers in the future.

Step Away From the Lace, Lady

 

 Azalea. Have you seen it? So pretty, so lacy. I picked it up last month, and today I decided to see if I have lace in the size it calls for. Answer: not really. So, it’s a fitting pair that I’ve sew up. I have just enough pink for half, and just enough yellow for half. The pattern that I purchased is light on instructions. Basically, here are the pieces, here is the list of ingredients needed. And, that’s it. I started sewing it up in size 42 before I realized that I should have done things in a slightly different order. Good thing it’s a practice pair of pants!

Then, I couldn’t figure out why the lace didn’t meet right. I put the front overlay together wrong! It’s supposed to make an upwards point like ^ not a v. That may be why they’re a tad snug. Or my butt is bigger than I thought. I have ordered some more lace - I found the pink one again, but in black. Patience awaiting its arrival…

Esplanade Myself

Is that ever a terrible fit? (It’s not, really. I didn’t realize something important before I started this blog post!) The paleness, though, we just live with: there is no proper “tan” for redheads. I do plan to wear a fitted version of this with a bit more coverage on my marshmallowy colored belly. And, it’s currently winter, proper winter. Snow is falling, snow is all around. Snow is several feet deep. There will be snow on the ground most likely into April at the current look of things.

This is my first try of the pattern, and I followed their directions to make the “correct” size. My underbust is about 33”, measured regular (not tight). My overbust is about 36”, and my bust ranges from 38-39” through the month. It must have been closer to 39” when I decided to cut this out. I made the suggested 36C. I’ve pinned out excess fabric from the cups and upper back. I used wires that fit me, which makes wrinkles in the side area because I have a wide bottom-heavy chest (which I’ve learned from the Dress Form fiasco, may also be short).

The Esplanade bra is a longline bustier from Orange Lingerie. It looks fun, and has some potential for summer. The cups are supposed to be made from bra cup foam (it comes flat on a roll), with a lovely fabric covering. The center and side front is fabric, and the back is that stretchy bra-back fabric called power net; the front is lined.

My bra foam mine hasn’t arrived yet. Because this was a trial run, I used batting and lined the cups to keep it from stretching out. I’ll be trying this again, most likely in the 38C with modifications (equivalent to 36D, but  looser in the band even though once the hooks and eyes were installed, I had to use the tightest setting to keep the cups up. Just that top hook on the tightest setting was enough!), the waist needed more space. The Orange company must be selling towards skinny minies, haha. I asked them for a chart with the waist measurements included. I did get an email with the polite response explaining that I’d have to figure it out myself. Gee, thanks. It would be nice to print off the waist pieces needed for my size waist and line up the underbust parts of the band that will fit me and smooth the lines... nope. (Note: OL has put up a full size chart on their website well after this was published, but it does not state the waist sizes of the Esplanade.)

From the front, you can’t see the main wire issue. The wires aren’t actually touching my chest wall in the center. I did push them in before pinching out the extra fabric. The cups fall away a bit, so I need to bring that in somehow. Narrow the gore? The waist is tight. An inch above doesn’t look as bad, but it comes in too tight for me (maybe because I’m short-waisted?), so I might need to shorten the length as well as possibly widening it a bit. I can see the side wrinkles caused by my wider wires just beside the base of the cups. Will I be redrawing the wire line to fit my wires next time? that alone may be enough to tighten the bust in.

My darling husband took the time to help me find my breast root with a flexible ruler. That looks pretty wide and relatively flat. I laid the ruler on the pattern and pulled the pattern apart until it was close to where I need it to be. I’ve added about half an inch (1.5 cm) between the front seams so far. I’ll have to draw new seams, and a new curve to the outside edge of the cup curve, then I’ll have to address the cup itself. I’ve taken about an inch off the bottom of the new size to fit my curves better.

So, what was it I hadn’t taken into account? The cup seemed like it was close to fitting when I sewed it together, but now seems big. I think this is because it’s too small!. The back elastic wasn’t pulled  tight enough, and the center front of the band is at an odd angle for me. The band doesn’t have enough room for that bust root. So, I’ve printed out the 36D for the next try. I can always take out from the center back when I get closer to the proper fit. An extra boning center front, maybe one added to each back piece, could help hold things better.

Overall, I do like the basic concept of the Esplanade bra. There are changes that need to be made to the whole thing... Hopefully, I’ll get a cute summer top in the end. 

Not A Body Double

Ages ago, my husband helped me to make a duct tape body copy to use as a dress form. Sadly, when we moved the thing didn’t make it intact. Since then, I have just been trying to finagle clothes to fit with adjustments that don’t always work. A couple years back, I came across a company that sells patterns for dress forms based on actual body dimensions! Finally, this week, I asked hubs to help measure me and ordered the form.

Yesterday, the dress form took form... and what a form she took! That is not my shape. I measured her. I measured me. We do not match.

First issue, the one that brought the issue to my attention, is that the peaks on that mountain range tower into the clouds (compared to me). The measurement from the center back neck to the apex point matches correctly. However, the lower edge is too deep. What did I measure wrong? Well, I think I tightened the tape measure as if fitting a bra. That made the underbust measure an inch or so too tight. The other thing is that the back measure is not clear what is being measured. I suggested that maybe it’s side seam to side seam, but hubs measured between the creases to be from (the back of) armpit to armpit. *His measuring was correct according to the correspondence from the company.

Second issue, the underbust line is too low. How far is it from the apex to the band measurement? On the dress form, that is three inches full of the giant slopes. On me? Two inches. This distance was not asked for by the company.

Third issue, or it may tie into or cause the second, is that the waist seam is NOT where it should be. Sure, it looks balanced on the form, but I’m not shaped like that. The hip line is correct compared to where the bust line is, but I am blessed with my Mom’s “short waist” which is over an inch above where this program placed it. This distance WAS asked for, but was NOT placed correctly.

What to do? It’s the weekend, I emailed Customer Service, and I’m waiting for a reply... In the interim, I’m black box testing the software. On their website, you can enter all the measurements, then request “Get A Free Preview.” Go through the checkout, and in a few (5-20] minutes, you receive a CG rendering of what it deciphers you to look like in your skivvies.

A Waistcoat from Belvedere

I started a fitted vest this spring for my husband intending to gift it to him for Father’s Day. My Mom’s illness took her and I spent the summer traveling back and forth to help Dad. It’s the school year again, and I must be home to teach the children. The Belvedere Waistcoat (threadtheory.ca) was picked up again. The only things needed to finish this were the buttons and buttonholes!

Ben is looking mighty fine, if I do say so myself. He has a long torso, so I lengthened the medium size by 2 inches and the back of the vest is covering his waistband. The front is made of denim and the back is stretch twill, both of which I had on hand. The lining is a no stretch polyester dress fabric, also on hand. The vest comes with the option for three welt pockets, all of which I added. The pocket insides are quilting cotton. I also added an interior pocket, just in case he needed it while traveling. 

The buttons for this vest are from my Mom’s collection. I think they were removed from a used item and stored for later reuse. The brassy color goes very well with the denim of the waistcoat.

This was my practice one, trial go. He’s pleased and I hope it’s a very wearable muslin! I have a nice wool that I would like to use for a cold weather vest for him. 

Wide Roots: Karolina

In my bra adventure, thus far I’ve discovered that I cannot just take a bra off the shelf and wear it, so I cannot easily just clone one, and I haven’t found a pattern that I can use as is.

Shape wise, my breasts are wide. I could probably attribute this to breastfeeding, which I was blessed to be able to do for about two years per baby. But, truth be told, I was active when young and just didn’t have much there until pregnancy! Also, because of the years of stretching around mammary tissue, they’ve gotten a bit bottom heavy. At this point, I’m sure these breasts deserve the dignity of a comfortable bra.

What type of bra really helps best? A full cup would need lots of built in support to push them up into the top of the cup. If I use horizontal seams, they look kind of sad... Vertical seams are said to be used for extra support. I suppose this leads to Demi or Balconette style bras with plenty of seams.

I can try the Shelley again, but I’m not ready for that. It will take some changes.
Harriet was pretty close, maybe make the lace edge narrower (shorter top to bottom) or wider (side to side)?

With a little searching, I found a cute pattern called Margo in a shop on Etsy, called LovelyOwnBra. I haven’t purchased any bra foam yet, which is what Margo calls for, but there’s a similar bra pattern that calls for lace. It’s named Karolina, and it costs half as much as Harriet, just over a third of the price of Shelley. Printing the cradle pieces at 100% shows an issue with my needed wire size:

Karolina has a four piece cup, all vertical seams, and is designed for a 70 cm or 80 cm band, I’m just an inch or two larger, so I converted to inches and figured out the difference, then used the printer to increase the pieces (printed at 109%). Also, note that there are no seam allowances included; one has to add one’s own. Not an issue, plus it helps that I can easily tape together the cup pieces and have a guesstimate on fitting.

 

I taped the cup pieces together, and the hubs said it needed more width to cover me, so I cut down into the last triangular piece and widened it. I also tried adding a join for the strap, but it turned out to be too far back on me. I need that to be in the third section instead of the fourth. Also, between the second and third sections is the main seam that is supposed to go over the peak. This needs to be brought in towards the front a quarter inch or so to fit me properly. I felt it was too generous (pointy), too, so I decreased the curve there.

I don’t have the right type of lace, or cup stabilizer, so I made my trial bra from duoplex. It could be the fabric’s extra stretch that gives me about an extra quarter inch on the left and half inch on the right side. If I had made the cups from nonstretch fabric, I think it would have been really close! I can certainly straighten the seams a bit between the third and fourth cup pieces to help cent er me a bit more.

With the increase in size, the cradle was a better size for the wire (shown above are both the 44 and 46 in the enlarged cradle pattern, I could curve out the top right a bit more to match). The size 46 wire was just a bit too wide on the right (my smaller side). I put the 44 in and am happier.

I need to figure a better way to show these. I’m using the safety pins to hold the straps on for this trial run, but the bra does look pretty good on!

Second Go: Harriet

Searching for a nice fitting bra pattern lead me to Orange Lingerie and Cloth Habit. I hemmed and hawed and settled on Harriet by Cloth Habit.

Again with the measuring! An underbust measurement of 32” snug with 38” gives about a 32E. I made the 32E, making sure not to pull the elastic too tight, but it was a bit snug. My measurements do vary, though, depending on my activity level.

I considered the wires...

I measured the cup edge...

I looked up what size bra needs a size 46 wire. Then, I printed out the size 38E cradle and measured it against the size 34DD cup and trimmed the 38E cradle to fit. I sewed up a frankenbra. The Harriet has a very flat edge to the cup, not round like the Shelley, so Harriet’s cup was easy to set in the larger cradle. I also eliminated the curve from the lower seam, which gave me a touch more lift.

Not so obvious from the pics, the bottom bra was the first attempt.  The upper bra is pretty good, I just need to trim those wires! But! The lace cuts across the top somewhat awkwardly. Again, I research!

what About the Wires!?

After making the Shelley bra failure, I started searching for more information. That’s when I came across a blog showing the fitting of a bra underwire. She showed the proper fit, too tight, and too loose.

Here are three styles of underwire, all the same size:

I ordered two fitting sets. The first set only went up to about a 40, the other set went to about 50. I tried them on, one at a time and discovered my biggest fitting issue: I fit about a 46!? Is that only when the wire is at rest? The bra is made to pull on the wire... So, should I use just a 42 or 44, or what? And, I fill the cup of a 34DD, but with a quarter inch difference for each size (thank you, breastfeeding), that puts me at least an half inch wider than the patterns allow for! That’s the equivalent of a size 34G or H. Which is how big they were during the early months of breastfeeding. Hullo!

First up: Shelley

My first choice in patterns is the Pin-Up Girls #3235: Shelley. I liked the basic look of the pattern and what information I could find indicated this is a good starter pattern. It is a four piece cup, so beginning sew-ers may want to try a simpler two piece cup first, but I do like a good puzzle. The measurements indicated I should try the 36C, which I did not. I do not like a loose and sliding band. I usually purchase a 34D or 34DD, if I can find it. I bought the pink pattern (smallest set of sizes) and went with the 34D. It did not fit. Mind you, I pulled it on and wore it, but it wasn’t right. So, I thought, maybe up a cup, down a band size... and purchased the yellow envelope (next size up), and I accidentally pulled the elastic too tight. The band cut off my circulation a bit and the cup was still wrong.

At this point, I was frustrated that the wire was uncomfortable, so I took it out and wore the Shelley without it. However, after a few tries, I determined that it is just too round and shelf-like for my preference. 

I may come back to Shelley, but I’m shelving this pattern while I consider how to improve it.

Underpinnings

Starting a weekly posting for June, 2018.

I’ve finally gone off the deep end! I became so frustrated trying to find a bra that fits that I quit buying ready to wear (RTW) bras. The last ones I bought were in desperation while out of town. I purchased the closest to my size they carried and immediately bent the wires nearly flat on bottom and as often as needed to keep the ends from poking me.

Did you know that the “bra industry” (for lack of a better description) has turned nearly exclusively to the simplest format of “sister sizes” for bras? If you try to go up a size in hopes of having a wider wire,  you’ll be stuck with the bigger cup and/or band. Very few brands have wires for wider breasts, unless they’re also larger volume.

I remember being able to wear RTW bras back before I breastfed babies. With each baby,  the breast makes more mammary tissue. After my first or second baby, I went with my mother-in-law (MIL) to a shop advertised as having every bra size. I asked for my usual size, hooked it on the tightest setting, and was offered a smaller band size. When I put it on, I immediately asked if it came in a size with wider wires. The lady gave me a strange look, then only offered wire-free bras.

All that to say that I finally started looking into bra making. A few kits have been purchased. A few bras have been assembled. So far, I think I’ve determined that there probably isn’t a bra pattern available geared to my fitting issues.

Let’s start with the basics: Measurements!

The first step to making most articles of clothing is to measure. For a bra, there are only two or three measurements called for. Before I run them off, I want to mention the part I learned the hard way and the patterns seem to ignore: wire size. The wire is the first thing a bra pattern maker should check on a client. From what I've read, the bra pattern is made based off this, then cup volume, then band and straps.

The wire size for most of the companies I’ve seen is named for the band measurement at the B cup. Note: if the bra size is 32E = 34DD = 36D = 38C = 40B, then all these “sister sizes” have the same wire and cup.

To measure your wire size, you need to measure the shape and length of the “root” of your breast. That’s the curve on the bottom where the breast attaches to the chest wall. If you have something you can shape against this area, then you may be able to just print off some charts and compare. I did purchase a couple groups of wires to try on and determine a good size. I may have to learn to trim wires, though, as my wire size is much larger than my typical bra size!

The band is basically the rib cage measurement, maybe adding an inch or two. I find the one that says to exhale and get the tightest measure to be too tight for comfort. I measure my band as the measurement of my ribcage when I’m inhaling comfortably. Not expanding as big as my lungs can get, just regular breaths. Using a soft measuring tape held just under the join of the breast to rib cage and about parallel to the floor, measure with the tape snug, exhale then inhale and note the difference. The snug number is what many patterns suggest to use for the band size, but it may be too tight in some fabrics.  My ribcage measurement is 32” to 33”, I like to wear a 34” band most of the time. 

The other place to measure for an approximate band size is over the bust. The overbust can be measured high on the ribcage, trying to avoid adding too much width added from the shoulder blades or breasts, hold the tape snuggly under the armpits and over the breasts (as straight as possible, but not necessarily parallel to the floor). Some women like a looser band, but I don’t get the support needed from this. My overbust measurement is 36”.

To find the bust measurement seems simple enough! All the directions seem to call for a well fitting bra. The idea is to have the breasts at the proper level to measure around them at the widest point. There are some suggestions to try measuring when lying down or leaning forward, but starting in what bra you have should get you in the ballpark. My bust measurement varies through the month from about 38” to 40”.

Figuring out the cup volume is generally done by subtraction. It’s not a perfect system, but it gives you a starting point. Take the bust measurement and subtract the ribcage. For example, my recent measurement of 38” bust minus the 32” ribcage gives me 6”, so I could try a (each inch is a letter: A, B, C, D, DD, E) 32E. Or, I could use my bust of 38” minus  my overbust of 36” and try 36B. Note: these are not sister sizes, just a trial starting point. Also note: the cup size of the letter holds more as the band size increases! B does not contain the same size breast in different band sizes!
34B = 32C = 36A

My last purchased bra was a 34D that was too loose in the band and too small in the cups. My starting point for sewing my own will be 32E or 34DD.

Happy 4th

Matching blue and white striped shirts. I think the fabric was on sale for $2 a yard, and I only had about 3-4 yards. So $8 for three shirts. The smile Ben gave me for being all matchy-matchy with his boys? Priceless.

I've got girls' dresses yet to sew up.. Later. Time now to enjoy BBQ'd burgers and homemade potato salad.

Patterns:
Colette Negroni (#1014) size Med: adapted the pattern so the facing was part of the shirt front. Used size Large neckline for his comfort.
McCall's M6226 size 14: is he really that big already?
New Look 6880 size 3: wow, same question!

Happy Independence Day!!

Sewing Darts

Darts used to drive me crazy until I stumbled into how I sew them now..

First, as I cut the patterns, I mark the pieces by stabbing pins through the pattern piece then gently hold up the edge of the pattern and carefully put a pin through from the wrong side into the pattern piece exactly where the first pin marked (I'll try to get pics or video of this up)




The darts are marked by pins at the dart point and about 1/4" from the edge ON each dart leg.



Now, I position the fabric so the dart legs away from me on the ironing board and I can use the left pin to replace the right pin (so the left pin goes down through the wrong side of fabric on the left dart leg, then up through the right dart leg from the right side).




Next, I stab that pin into the ironing board (doesn't my friend have the coolest burn mark on her ironing board cover?). The dart point had been marked by another pin: keep it in place and work the folded edge of the fabric to make a straight, even fold from the pin to the edge of the fabric.





Now, carefully iron the fabric to make a crisp fold without melting the heads of the plastic pins and permanently adhering them to your fabric.. ('cause that would be bad..)





Take a straight edge and something to mark the dart: pencil, disappearing ink..line up the straight edge, draw a line between the two pins.






See how lovely?





Use the pins to pin the dart in place to maintain the edge and keep the fabric from moving whole sewing (a third pin in the middle helps).





Either, sew by hand with small stitches. Or, by machine:





At the normal stitch length, begin by sewing a few stitches backward, and then stitch, stopping about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric.





Change to a smaller stitch length..





..and sew off the edge of the dart. (With practice, you'll be able to change the stitch length at the appropriate place without stopping.)





Leave threads long and tie them in a square knot (really, shortening the stitch takes care of this, and I just snip the threads, leaving ~1/4" ends). Tada!:





Press dart in direction suggested by pattern, and you're good to go!

Space, the Final Frontier

Crafting overtook the game table set up in the corner of the living room. Then fabric filled some of the laundry baskets and were piled onto the coffee table. I considered building cabinets along the wall. I prayed for a cabinet to organize this chaos.

Last Friday, I was visiting a friend whose children have nearly all been potty-trained. She asked if I knew anyone who is expecting and needs a changing table. I drew a blank. Is anyone I know in the area expecting right now? She showed me the unit and my corner of piled baskets of fabric came to mind.. If she didn't find anyone in need, may I have it? Apparently, she'd had it on offer for a couple weeks without takers and was more than happy to give it to me!

My cutting mat fits on the lower side of the table, where the changing pad belongs. This disturbs Ben a little.. Now, the bottom drawer has scraps and fabric the children have requested, the middle drawer has my projects, and I'm working on organizing the top drawer.

LX fits in the cabinet, so I'll move in there more slowly. Otherwise, he dumps out what I put in there, or claims it as his own.

Colette Crepe, First Go

Crepe Dress, Second Go

Last month, I cut out a couple dresses. Late at night. And managed to have the pattern pieces upside down. The green fabric has words across it: birds, flowers, fruit, vegetables.





I think it's cute. This is view 1, with the scoop neck. MissB took these pictures for me.

Timeline

Apparently, this is the only picture of both toys together! About midnight (or was it 1AM?) I remembered that the children were invited to a joint birthday party today. And I didn't have a gift yet. So, I grabbed the Wee Wonderfuls book and started crafting. I had already decided to make the giraffe and so it was traced, and I cut it out of the leftovers from a dress I had prepped to sew yesterday. The giraffe is for the 2yo boy. His big sister is 4 and I flipped through and picked the Tag-Along doll. I traced the pattern -searched for fabric!- and found a nice medium brown. I cut her legs from pink with polka dots and her dress is blue. I couldn't find my corduroy, but I finally found it today and she has pretty black cord hair.




I think she came out cute. I had scheduled to be home at 11:30 to get them started sewn, but didn't leave the coffee shop (where I study) till after noon! I could have used that extra half hour to finish the dress! And maybe make the giraffe a giraffe. Without the tail and horns, oh, and ears, he looks more like a tailless dinosaur, so we nicknamed him the giraffasaurus.





We played sidewalk chalk, pop the balloon, and musical chairs . There was a piñata and bouncy house.




Loads of fun!

Busy bees

Life is good. :)




My MIL made there cute dresses and pants for the girls. Each has it own unique trim and hem treatment. She sent the scraps and I made a doll dress. MissB made a couple things, too. A collar pattern became a crown, a bodice pattern was used to make a bib. (I'll try to get pics later)



We've gone on a couple picnics.



They took me to the range on Mother's Day. <3





The girls made cupcakes (or tasty hockey pucks). yum!





Ben helped the children make s'mores. (that's blueberry stains all over him. Ben also got to clean the carpet!)





We flew the kite. And lots more! Have a great weekend!

Blue Chantilly Dress

I had picked up this blue and brown voile on sale at the fabric store with the Swing Dress in mind. Then I started on the Chantilly muslin and decided that would combine well with the blue for my Resurrection Celebration (Easter) dress.

I added brown piping at the waistline. It seems as if I could have used an 8 at the waist instead, maybe I stretched it while adding the piping.

I did pick up some brown to use with the red muslin top, so maybe I'll drop down a size at the waist and see how it goes.

The only change i made on the pattern was to add 8" to the hem. Overall, it fits well, flatters my figure, and is very feminine. I think it's a keeper!

Grandma Made It!

My Mother-in-law, Barb, sewed these cute dresses for the girls for Easter. Adorable!! The pattern is McCall's M6312. These are the dresses that I had hoped to help with when she was visiting. We found this adorable silhouette fabric on discount at the local quilt store (no complete selvedges are left, or I'd let you know it's name). It took a while to find the right contrasts, too!



Barb sewed the dress together and left the buttons/-holes and hems for me to do. On this pattern, the straps are supposed to be buttoned closed, but the straps are so short, it didn't make sense to take that extra half inch to overlap the fabric far enough down to add the button. And, since it was cut on the pattern size of the girls' age, with added length, it was too big around. So, my simple solution was to move the buttons over to take in the fullness. The buttons can be moved as the girls grow -MissC's dress (4 year old) fit MissA (8 year old) with the original button placement.





I like to add something to make the dress individualized for each girl when I make them. Since I was on hem duty, I thought it would be fun to use hem lace -which I'd never used before- in the girls' favorite color. I went with muted colors instead of bright to go with the dresses. MissA has peach as it is close to pink, MissB has lavender or lilac, and MissC has Mediterranean blue.